jricklawn.com

What’s happening with my grass?!

Tue, 07 Jul 2026 14:22:35 GMT

We have started to see a lot of a fungus called Ascochyta Leaf Blight. This condition occurs during hot, dry periods followed by cool and rainy periods. The good news about this issue is that it is not a root disease, so it is unlikely that any death of grass blades will occur. The problem usually goes away within 14-21 days of the initial appearance, with no recommended treatments. Make sure your mower blades are sharp, and try not to mow when the grass is wet or in the heat of the day. Click the link for more information and management tips – CSU Extension: Ascochyta Leaf Blight

We have received some pretty nice rain storms in the past few weeks which has been great for your lawn, plants and trees. Everything is looking much greener! However, cool and moist weather and fluctuating temperatures can cause issues with fungus which we have been noticing in our area – Ascochyta Leaf Blight.

Ascochyta Leaf Blight:

Necrotic Ring Spot:

This fungus thrives during heavy
rains, and cool/moist weather. This problem occurs in the root zone and appears in small, dead circles in the top growth of your lawn. The best time to treat this disease will be early in the spring when soil temperatures reach 65 degrees, with a follow up application 14-21 days later. These areas can be raked out, re-seeded, and top-dressed to try and promote new growth; however this will also mask the issue. Fungicide treatments next spring are highly recommended to solve the problem. Click the link for more information and management tips – CSU Extension: Necrotic Ring Spot

Winter Desiccation

Tue, 07 Jul 2026 14:20:41 GMT

Rake and mow down to get rid of dead grass
Aerate
Overseed
Top-dress with trimix or another nutrient rich soil. ¼-1/2 ’’
Overseed
Lightly Cultivate – sew the seed into the soil

New seed needs to be watered 2-3 times daily for the first 3-4 weeks.

The main goal is to keep everything moist and not let the seed dry out; 3-4 weeks of recommended watering will allow proper germination of the seed.

Watering always depends on the amount of sun, wind & shade that the area receives, so please adjust times accordingly.

*Another option is to cut out and replace the damaged areas with new sod. We recommend Green Belt Turf Farm for this service.

Winter Desiccation takes place when the turf grass plant is in its dormant or semi-dormant stages and can cause varying degrees of damage severity.

All turf grass species are prone to winter desiccation if the right conditions persist. Winter Desiccation occurs when the leaves and other parts of the turf grass plant are damaged often to the point of death because its roots are unable to supply enough water to keep up with the amount of water the turf grass plant is losing to the atmosphere.

The most severe turf winter damage typically occurs when there is no snow coverage and Dry, windy conditions persist. Generally, the worst affected spots in the lawn are in elevated areas, on exposed slopes, and well drained sites in sandy soils.

There is also a likely possibility of mite damage in areas that received full sun. The mites drown out once the lawn is watered, but they can do a lot of damage to turf in a short period of time.

The extent of the desiccation damage can range from minor to severe. If minor damage has occurred, the lawn should recover on its own during the spring when the lawn begins to actively grow and break dormancy. If major damage has occurred, aggressive renovation practices will be required to repair these areas. Cultural practices such as Core Aeration, Overseeding, Topdressing may be required.

WHAT YOU CAN DO

How to Drain Your Sprinkler System in 5 Easy Steps

Tue, 07 Jul 2026 14:18:56 GMT

There are multiple parts to your irrigation system, and knowing what they are will ensure you can completely drain the backflow in your system. If you don’t drain the backflow, you risk broken/damaged pipes and other delicate parts. (Note: parts on your system may look slightly different, but will be this general shape.)

This section of piping actually has multiple important parts of your system in it. The two blue handles are both ball valves, and the top right valves are known as Petcock valves.

To the right is an example of a standpipe drain . This is the piece that connects into the ball valves and the petcock valve pictured above. The purpose of this drain is to prevent water getting trapped in the system.

An inlet drain valve , like this one, helps you avoid damage to the rest of your system. Without this piece, water may get stuck in your pipes.

Your Main Shut off valve may be a gate or ball valve. This photo is of a ball valve. It will be at the end of your system, and is used to cut the water from your sprinklers.

In Manual Drains, this valve pit needs to be open to ensure gravity can allow the system to drain properly.

Just need to know how to drain your sprinklers? Jump to the Steps

What are the Parts of a Sprinkler System?

How to Drain a Sprinkler System:

Steps:

Turn Off Your Water Supply Valve.
Open All Inlet and Outlet Drain Valves and Backflow Preventer.
Turn Inlet and Outlet Ball Valve Handles to a 45° angle.
Open Drain Valve near Water Supply Valve to Drain Water from Backflow Preventer.
Note: Some Systems Have Manual Drains and some have Automatic Drain Valves. In manual drain homes, Valve Boxes/Pits also need to be opened. This ensures the system drains properly.

Choosing between DIY or Professional Lawn Care

Tue, 07 Jul 2026 14:16:37 GMT

That’s the big thing about DIY vs. professional help is being able to save money.

As you think about your lawn needs this year you might be thanking HGTV, Pinterest, YouTube, and a few of your neighbors for making things seem so easy.

Before you know it, you could be up to your ears in bags of fertilizer and lawn products while you’re still surrounded by weeds and brown grass. The flip side to that is everything could turn out perfectly.

When it comes to your yard, here are a few things to think about when you’re trying to choose between do-it-yourself (DIY) and hiring a professional.

How Much Money Are You Actually Saving?

DIY Costs

By doing a quick search through home improvement stores such as Lowes, Home Depot, or Menards, you can already tell that lawn equipment and the materials are expensive. The average lawn mower is $350, and a few bags of fertilizer is close to $100. This is not all the material you’ll need, but you get the idea.

Although you’re spending money up front for any materials you’ll need, you will have material to use time and time again—hopefully. Hopefully, those few bags of fertilizer you spent $100 on will be enough for your yard, and hopefully, you’ll be receiving the results you want.

Since you aren’t a lawn expert, there is a chance that you will be throwing money down the drain for materials you don’t need or want.

Professional Costs

Professional sounds expensive, but it doesn’t have to be. Professional is another way of saying, expert. By bringing in an expert, you’re promised results.

These experts know why your yard doesn’t look like the HGTV and Pinterest model homes and how to fix it. They study the ins and outs of yard health and how to fix it. Most lawn services offer free quotes, so you know how much work your lawn needs, and bundle offers to get you the best value.

Is It Worth Your Time?

DIY is a huge time investment, but so is professional lawn care services.

DIY Time

After a long day at work, are you actually interested in coming home and mowing your lawn? Maybe, but only because it gives you an excuse to be outside, right?

Now, throw in fertilizing, watering, and aerating and your relaxing evening turned into a never-ending endeavor. All for something that you’re not even a thousand percent sure will give you the results you want…

Before you start “operation make my yard green” think about what needs to be accomplished, how you’re going to accomplish that, and how much time it’s going to take.

Professional Lawn Care Time

When you bring in a professional lawn care service, depending on your lawn’s situation, you’re committing to several treatments where professionals come to your house and treat your lawn.

These people might need to talk to you to tell you what fertilizer they put down, where they installed new devices, and other things they accomplished. You should make yourself available so that you and your professional have an open line of communication.

Making the Decision

Based on time and costs, the best thing would be to assess what your lawn needs and go from there. If your lawn only needs one thing and you know 100% that you can do it yourself and produce the results you need and don’t mind spending the time doing it—go for it.

If your lawn has never lived up to your potential, you see more bugs than usual, or it seems like more than you can handle—bring in the professionals.

If you’re on the fence between the two, call a professional and get a free quote because a free quote can’t hurt any more than what you’re already doing, talk to our professionals for your free quote now.

Guard Your Yard: Try These 3 Spring Lawn Care Tips

Tue, 07 Jul 2026 14:14:33 GMT

There aren’t very many palm trees and cactus in Colorado. That’s because those plants thrive in different weather. If these plants were brought into Colorado, they would need a lot of attention to thrive, and even then their survival might be questionable strictly based on being in a foreign environment.

Most types of grass are the same way.

Grass is a plant that needs to be taken care of and attended to but depending on what climate your grass is in will determine how you take care of it.

Colorado grasses are considered cool-season grasses. Danny Lipford and his team at Today’s Home Owner, note that cool-season grass has two growing periods, a moderate one in the spring and a huge one in the fall.

So this spring, focus on studying up on what cool-season yards need to really enhance that growth period.

Welcome to springtime!

The snow is melting, the weather is getting warmer, and everything is starting to look and feel alive again.

Well, maybe not as alive as you would like it because your yard is a little brown from all that snow being on it this winter.

Don’t worry, your lawn can make a comeback, and can be healthy in no time. Here are 3 spring lawn care tips that can help.

Study and Understand Your Yard’s Preferred Climate

Spring Lawn Care – Fertilize, Water, and Care for your Lawn

Your yard has been hiding for what feels like forever, now that it’s ready to come out of hiding give it the attention it needs—but not too much attention.

After you’ve studied cool-season grasses, you should have a good idea about how much food and water your grass needs to grow. Now is the time to put that into place.

Fertilizing your lawn will not only help it grow lush and green, but it will kill all those potential unwanted weeds that make your lawn dull. Keeping weeds away keep allergies away too, so you want to get on top of that before your allergy attacks start.

Overwatering, fertilizing, and caring for your lawn is harmful to it too. Your yard is soft from all the water absorption from the snow melting. Keep walking and intense raking to a minimum, so your lawn has a chance to grow happy and healthy.

Let Your Lawn Breathe: Implement Seasonal Aeration

Aeration is the term for when lawn care professionals pull soil cores out of the ground and allow more air, water, and nutrients to reach the grass’ roots. Healthy roots lead to healthy grass, which makes a healthy lawn.

Since cool-season grasses have a strong growth period in the spring months, it’s important to implement aeration tactics in the spring followed by seeding.

Seeding right after aeration will allow the grass seeds to get down into the soil and have the best chance at growing to fill bare patches in your yard.

Wrap Up

If you care for your lawn in the springtime, it will have a stronger chance at being healthier all year round.

Do you have other questions about how to care for your lawn? Ask our experts your questions.

Professional Lawn Care: Signs You May Require It

Tue, 07 Jul 2026 14:12:06 GMT

If you look at your lawn and it’s slightly yellow or brown, you might need some help.

Being in Colorado, the grass is primarily cool-season grass. This means, even if you think you’re caring for your grass you might not be taking care of it the proper way.

You could be experiencing non-green grass for reasons other than misinterpreting your yard’s preferred season, but overall if your grass isn’t green, it’s definitely time to look into professional lawn care services.

Pat Howell, a former professional football player, once said, “grass is the cheapest plant to install and the most expensive to maintain.”

You might be thinking to yourself, “Well Pat, I can understand as a football player how you might think that, but I’ve had the same grass out in my lawn for a number of years and haven’t spent THAT much money on it.”

Well, according to The Lawn Institute, well-designed and maintained landscapes increase a home property value by 15-20%.

Okay, so maybe you should listen to Pat and pay a little more attention to your yard.

Here are a few signs that say your lawn needs some professional help.

Brown and Yellow Grass

Weeds and Fungus

Do you see numerous dandelions and mushrooms in your yard? It might be time to spend some quality time with your yard.

According to the New York Times, not only do weeds and fungus make your yard look bad, they can be the cause of your allergies. Mushroom fungus spores are so small that they are infecting your air quality and could be the cause of your sneezing.

Weeds and fungi in your yard are not necessarily your fault. Weather conditions in Colorado could be creating this. Nevertheless, this is a sign of your lawn needing attention.

More Bugs Than Usual

Have you noticed more grasshoppers, spiders, mites, worms, and other creepy crawly creatures lately?

Non-healthy lawns attract grubs, beetles, grasshoppers and other insects that lay eggs in your yard. Once they lay their eggs, the baby insects eat the roots of your grass causing your lawn to be brown and unhealthy.

Ultimately, these creatures are eating and ultimately killing your grass, spreading diseases, and might be the cause of your children’s tears.

Now, don’t start spreading pesticides all over your lawn, but start looking into professional options so you can solve your lawn and other problems associated with bugs.

Wrap Up

These three things are not the only reason your lawn isn’t reaching its maximum potential, but they could be at least one of them. If you haven’t given your lawn the attention it needs in a while, it couldn’t hurt to reach out to a professional and have them come look at your lawn.

Who knows, one visit from a professional could increase your entire home value by 15-20%.

Do you have a question about your lawn that was inspired or not mentioned in this article? Ask our experts your lawn questions. We’re happy to help.

Why Seeding and Fertilizing Are Important Parts of Professional Lawn Care

Tue, 07 Jul 2026 14:10:30 GMT

Wrap Up

Seeding is the process of spreading grass seeds on top of your existing grass.

According to The Lawn Institute, “a lawn needs about one inch of water per week to be healthy.”

In Colorado last May there was an average of two inches of precipitation in the entire month of May.

That means, to have a healthy lawn, homeowners need to add an additional water source, and even with these water sources, your lawn might need more help.

This is where seeding and fertilizing come in. Here are a few reasons why you should add seeding and fertilizing to your lawn care routine.

Understanding Seeding Your Yard

Why Do I Need to Seed My Yard?

Due to Colorado’s harsh winters, your yard might have brown patches where a section of snow stayed all winter, or your dog was using the bathroom. Since grass in Colorado is cool-weather grass, seeding in the springtime will make your yard lush and green.

If these bare patchy areas don’t bother you now, think about the long term. Cool-weather grasses have a hard time absorbing seeds in the summer versus in the spring and fall. This means, your yard will be crunchy and dry for most of the warmer months.

What Does Seeding Do?

Seeding disperses small grass seeds throughout your yard to fill patchy dead areas. If your yard doesn’t have dead patches, seeding will make your yard full and plush, so it won’t be painful to walk on without shoes and will eliminate bug and weed appearances. Although eliminating bugs and weeds doesn’t seem like much, these two pests can attribute to allergies and bites.

Understanding Fertilizing Your Yard

Fertilizing is the act of directly placing nutrients in the ground to have the grass and plants absorb to be healthy.

Why Do I Need to Fertilize My Yard?

When you buy flowers at the flower shop they come with this little bag of “flower food,” which should extend the life of the flowers. Since grass is a plant (similar to flowers), it is important that they receive their food to stay healthy too.

Although your grass might not look like it, not all soil has all the proper nutrients to sustain thick grass bundles. One area of your yard might have the proper nutrients for thick grass, but another area could be lacking the nitrogen or potassium it needs to be healthy. Fertilizing spreads nutrients over a large area and soaks into the soil to make your entire yard thick vs. one area.

What Does Fertilizing Do?

Fertilizer is a combination of nutrients that soak into the soil and making your grass healthy. Essentially, fertilizer is grass food, and there are various types of fertilizer because depending on what stage your yard is at, depends on what type of fertilizer to apply. These different types of fertilizer have different nutrients in them that your grass needs.

For example, if your yard is experiencing pests, weeds, or fungus, you can apply fertilizer to increase your grass’ health and eliminate unwanted lawn tenants that create health problems and other concerns.

This is just the very beginning of why you should seed and fertilize your yard. Complex science goes into seeding and fertilizing, so if you’re interested in learning more contact one of our experts, we’d be happy to go over the genetic makeup of seeding and fertilizing with you.

If you’re still confused about the importance of seeding and fertilizing contact our experts now.

Wondering When to Aerate Your Lawn? Here’s a Few Things You Need to Know

Tue, 07 Jul 2026 13:36:20 GMT

Lawn aeration is the process of poking small holes in your turf to allow air, water, and nutrients to get into your soil and grassroots. This feeds the roots, allowing it to grow and produce a healthier, stronger lawn.

Aerating soil curbs soil compaction, which prevents water, air, and nutrients from penetrating the soil. While soil compaction is a major cause for aeration, any lawn or organic debris located under the surface of the grass can also prevent these essential elements from reaching the roots.

Regardless of the climate you live in or the type of grass you have, aeration can help keep your lawn healthy and luscious. The trick to getting the best results is to know when to aerate your lawn and what equipment to use.

What is Aeration?

When to Aerate Your Lawn?

Wondering if spring is the best time to aerate your lawn? Ideally, you should aerate just before or during the growing season. During this time, aeration is the best step you can take to heal your lawn after a damaging period. While aeration is good for lawns, it should be timed properly to prevent added stress to your grass. Dormant lawns should never be aerated.

Ideally, you should use cool season grass to aerate the lawn in spring and fall, and warm-season grass in late spring and early autumn.

Aeration should not be performed immediately after the growing season or during stressful periods, for example, peak winter or summer months. The type of grass will ultimately determine when is the best time to aerate.

In spring, mow your lawn a few times first before aerating. This allows the lawn to take full advantage of the added nutrients, water, and air provided by aeration and grow fast enough to recover from any stress or damage.

When aerating in fall, do it early enough that the turf has time to recover before it becomes dormant in winter. For the best, most effective results, you should aerate your lawn at least once per year, or twice a year for lawns with compacted soil.

The best time to aerate your lawn is when your soil is moist after rainfall or irrigation as moisture eases the process. If your soil is overly dry, it can be difficult to aerate. That said, you should not aerate overly wet lawns either.

What to do After Aeration?

Ideally, you should water your lawn after aeration. That said, you should never aerate your lawn when the turf is wet or muddy. It is also advised to apply fertilizer or weed killer shortly after aeration. Another good tip is to overseed after aeration, which improves seed to soil contact and aids in successful germination. If you plan to overseed after aeration, do not apply weed killer

Are you in need of a specialist? Contact J. Rick Lawn & Tree for all your lawn care needs in Colorado Springs.

How to cope with a wishy-washy spring

Tue, 07 Jul 2026 13:34:31 GMT

Fruit trees may not have peaches, apples or apricots this season.
Crabapples: since they bloom over time, some may set fruit and survive. Others may be questionable for fruiting. Successful fruit production depends on the size of the fruit at the time of a freeze.
Ash, maple and honey locust whose leaves browned out in an earlier freeze will likely come back with expanding secondary leaves. Make sure trees receive adequate water to avoid drought stress and apply appropriate fertilizer.
Perennials that have not yet flowered should move into the season with few effects. Flowers on early-blooming plants, such as lilacs and forsythia, may be lost during a freeze. The weight of snow may push blossoms and petals off many blooming plants. Peonies may have broken stems. Late-blooming stiff-stem iris should survive. While it’s painful to lose showy blooms, the plants themselves should recover and rebound.
Tender annual veggies – tomatoes, green peppers and emerging seedlings – are likely lost unless protected from a freeze. You’ll want to keep freeze protection in place if temps hover near freezing.

What will plants need after a weather roller-coaster?

Veggies and annual flowers that did not survive need to be replanted.
Trees and shrubs may need selective pruning to remove storm damage. Splayed plants may need bundling to restore their shape.
Perennials are tough, snow storm survivors and will likely recover with some pruning and TLC. Provide adequate water and fertilizer and monitor for pest infestations.

The consolation prize in these weather events is that there may be fewer ash seeds falling and sprouting in beds and lawns. And there may be less cottonwood cotton floating in the air.

The best plant Rx after these weather events is to keep plants healthy and unstressed. Healthy plants are more resistant to insects and diseases. If you must replace some of your plants, select varieties most likely to survive in Colorado’s challenging climate. This lawn treatment will keep your landscape healthy, even with a wishy-washy Colorado Springs springtime weather.

Spring time along the Colorado front range can be an exciting time. From thunder snow, to high temps in the 80s and 90s to the very next day of hail, or freezing temperatures and a blanket of snow. If you’ve lived here any length of time you know what we’re talking about. This kind of weather along the Front Range can leave people and plants confused over whether spring will ever arrive. So what is the prescribed lawn treatment after these events?

When Mother Nature gets wishy-washy in the springtime, what should we expect?

5 Types of Lawn Weeds You Need to Know in Colorado

Tue, 07 Jul 2026 13:32:46 GMT

Are you struggling with out of control weeds in Colorado? J. Rick Lawn & Tree can help.

Contact us today for a free quote.

Lambquarters are a common type of lawn weed. They are edible weeds related to spinach and are quite prevalent in Colorado. These usually pop up in early spring and can grow out of control if not tended to immediately. On the plus side, because they are edible, many gardeners eat their lambquarters in salads or sautéed. That said, lambquarters can cause major destruction in your garden, so you must pull out the whole plant when you harvest these weeds. The best way to manage lambquarters are through hand weeding or hoeing – just make sure to get to it before it grows too big.

Weeds are every gardener’s nightmare. In Colorado, weeds can wreak havoc on even the best-tended lawns. How your lawn responds to weeds depends on a few factors, including the type of weed and your lawn’s overall health. In order to successfully beat a weed invasion and retain the health of your lawn, let’s help you identify some of the most common types of lawn weeds on Colorado.

Lambquarters

Bindweed

Bindweed is the bane of many gardener’s existences, and with good reason. While very common, bindweed is difficult to kill as they can spread by seed and root. This means that you must pull out the weed completely as any small piece of root left in the ground will cause it to re-sprout. The most effective way to control this dreaded weed to just keep pulling it up. In this way, you should be able to eradicate most of it over time. If your bindweed problem seems excessive, you could consider using landscape fabric below or around your bed to prevent growth.

Purslane

Purslane is another edible weed that has all the benefits of a leafy plant. This succulent plant has a lemony flavor and is packed with omega- fatty acids. Purslane is used raw or lightly cooked in salads. Despite its redeeming qualities though, purslane is still a weed and you should not let it grow long enough to seed as one plant can produce over 200,000 seeds. Those seeds get to work germinating for years and are best managed by hand weeding.

Curly Dock

Curly Dock forms part of the buckwheat family and is a common weed in the Colorado area. Curly Dock is also edible, but not as commonly eaten and harvested as lambquarters or purslane. Curly Dock weeds have broad, bushy leaves and can grow very tall if left undisturbed. Just like bindweed, a new plant can grow from just a small piece of root left in the ground, so it is important to get the entire plant out. That said, due to its deep, strong roots, hand weeding can be hard. The best way to get rid of Curly Dock is to dig up the entire plant.

Kochia

Taking a seat alongside lambquarters as a part of the goosefoot family, Kochia is a common weed found throughout the western states of the US. It has greyish-green leaves, although it can also have a slight purple color when it is small. Kochia can grow to be 5’ or taller if not managed. The good news – this weed has a shallow taproot that can be easily pulled.

Jack Frost Leave You with Dead Grass? Here’s How to Easily Revive Your Lawn

Tue, 07 Jul 2026 13:28:14 GMT

We’re Colorado Springs’ premium lawn care provider. Contact us today or request a free quote.

Here are some helpful tips to help you revive your dead grass to its former glory after the effects of the cold.

While a summer drought can ruin a good lawn, the harsh winter weather can do its own share of damage as well. Cold, frosty weather can suck the life out of your luscious lawn. However, all is not lost.

Tips to Revive your Dead Grass

Survey the Damage

The first step is to determine the extent of the damage. Is your grass dead or simply in a dormant state? Is your entire lawn damaged or are there just dead spots? Warm-season grasses naturally go dormant in cold weather and are likely to return to its natural state with some TLC.

Get Rid of Debris and Dead Grass

Make sure to clean up any tree branches, leaves, and other debris before you start the process of reviving your dead grass. Getting the debris and dead grass out of the way lets you see the extent of the damage done to your lawn. Remove any plants and shrubs that didn’t survive the winter and trim any overgrown branches to allow for new growth.

Aerate the Soil

Excessive snow and foot traffic can damage your soil, making it hard for the roots to get the nutrients and water it needs to thrive. Use a plug aerator or simply poke holes in your lawn to aerate the soil and get in top condition again.

Remove Weeds

Pull out any weeds you see popping up. If it is excessive, spray weed killer. If you do not want to use harsh chemicals on your grass, try a homemade version. This should be done before watering or fertilizing the lawn as you don’t want the weeds to continue to grow.

Reseed

Before you start to reseed, all frost must be thawed and the soil temperature should be around 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit. Use your hands to scatter seeds evenly, or you can choose to use a mechanical seeder if you have a bigger lawn. These seeds need to be watered daily so that they can begin to grow.

Fertilize

Maintain

A lawn requires upkeep, especially during winter. Ideally, healthy grass length should be around three inches so it doesn’t dry out. It also needs to be mowed regularly. Another top tip – don’t fertilize too often as it can lead to pest infestations and weed growth.

Reviving dead grass does not happen overnight. Getting your lawn back to its healthy state takes time, care and patience. That said, having a luscious lawn is not only good to look at, but increases the curb appeal of your house.

Help plants get back on track

Tue, 07 Jul 2026 10:59:59 GMT

We’re Colorado Springs’ premium lawn care provider. Contact us today or request a free quote.

Bad news/good news for trees Many ash and honey locust trees may suffer in freezing temps along the Front Range and their leaves may turn brown. The good news is that Mother Nature has a built-in contingency plan. Most of these trees should recover and send out a secondary set of buds and leaves. Expect them to appear in about three weeks.

Pushing out these secondary buds requires a lot of energy within the tree. Be prepared to relieve the stress by providing extra TLC with a tree care program that includes adequate water and fertilization.

Address damaged and hanging branches Branches broken by winds may be hanging in the tree to ready fall at any time and cracked branches could fall in the next wind storm. Falling branches pose serious risks to people and property. If you can’t reach limb damage with an extended saw while standing flat-footed on the ground, bring in a pro who has the equipment and know-how to do the job safely. If you suspect there may be damage, schedule an inspection by a pro who can tell you whether pruning is in order.

Splayed shrubs Heavy snows often leave shrubs splayed open and they may not perk up to their original form on their own. You can help the shrub recover from plant freeze damage by bundling and tying the branches for a couple of months to help it regain its former shape.

Perennials Early -blooming perennials that have sent up flower stalks are also subject to breakage in heavy snows. Sometimes tulips and daffodils perk up after the snow melts, especially if the snow has insulated their blooms from freezing, and other times they are not so lucky. We can only live with the results – and if blooms are bent but not broken, think about cutting the stems for an indoor bouquet.

Remember to leave the foliage from bulbs in place until they turn brown. The green leaves will be busy pulling nutrients into the bulb that will push next season’s growth.

If unsure about peonies, it may be possible to cut off the flower stems and try to force blooming indoors.

Assess damage, do what you can – and get the lawn mower ready to roll. Recent moisture–especially if you fertilized the lawn before the rains–will make your grass grow.

Late spring snows, that occur after plants have sent up flowers or leafed out, generally leaves plant freeze damage or destruction in their wake.

Heavy snows that cling to leaves and weigh down branches cause limbs to break, push tulips to the ground and can force petals to fall off. Shrubs have branches splayed open and some perennial blooms may freeze. It’s not what we want to see as spring comes to life across the landscape.

Nevertheless, in Colorado’s harsh and unpredictable climate, this is what we deal with. Here are some things you need to know – and some steps you might take to undo some of the damage.

Watering Guidelines for Colorado Springs’ Lawns

Tue, 07 Jul 2026 10:57:00 GMT

We’re Colorado Springs’ Premium Lawn Care Provider. Contact Us Today Or Request A Free Quote.

Proper watering is critical to your lawn’s health and vigor. Deep and infrequent watering is the best practice. This means wetting the soil to a depth of 4-6 inches per irrigation. This equates to ½” of irrigation at a time. This method of watering matches current and proposed twice a week watering restrictions in Colorado Springs.

Water at times of low wind.

Water during the very early morning rather than in the afternoon or evening to minimize risk for disease

To reduce water runoff and to help water penetrate and soak deeply into the soil, we recommend “Cycle and Soak” watering schedule. Instead of watering for a long period of time and allowing the water to runoff into the street, divide the total watering time per zone by 3. Water 3 shorter intervals (all in the same morning). For example at 3am, 4am, and 5am, before winds pick up. Each cycle, water for 15 minutes for rotor heads, 8 minutes for stationary pop-ups, and 30 minutes for low volume MP Rotator heads. (These times are averages sampled from other lawns to reach a desired amount of water, which is ½” at a time.) Water less in shaded or poorly drained areas.

Do not water every day or two. Frequent, short watering encourages shallow roots, unhealthy grass, plants, and leaves turf susceptible to drought, weeds, and disease.

Water newer trees using soaker hoses or direct hose drips once every couple of weeks.

We can help with your bed weed control , seeding , seasonal aeration , turf disease control and fertilizing and weed control .

Summer Lawn Watering to Beat the Heat

Tue, 07 Jul 2026 10:52:34 GMT

It’s important that you are watering consistently and at the right times of the day at this time of year. Keep in mind that roads, sidewalks and rock beds are heat conductors. This will cause water to evaporate quickly and not get to the root systems where it is needed most.

This is why you may have been noticing grass edges along these surfaces that look dried out. With high temperatures and winds, lawns lose 1.5-2” of moisture per week through evapotranspiration. This means, to maintain a healthy lawn, you must replenish that amount of water.

Watering tips

You should be watering 3-4 days per week (Do follow any local restrictions that may be in place at your location). But, if highs are consistently in the 90’s, you will want to water every other day. Water early morning only, do not split your time between morning and evening. Splitting your watering creates shallow roots and allows for more weeds to germinate. Water in 2 to 3 back to back cycles in the early morning before 9am.

Rotor heads should run for 45-50 minutes and stationary pop ups should run for 25-30 minutes total time. This will allow time for the water to soak in and push down further in the root system.

Example: You have 4 pop-up stations and 3 rotor zones. The pop-up stations should be set to run for 9 min each cycle and rotors 16 minutes. The total run time per cycle would be roughly 1 hour and 24 minutes. You would want to set your 3 start times for 4am, 5:30am, and 7am. Watering should always be finished by 9am.

Please Note: The information above applies to ESTABLISHED LAWNS ONLY.

See our Watering Guidelines For Colorado Springs’ Lawns for seasonal watering information.

Having temperatures of 90+ degrees? It’s important to understand how to water in summer.

Ascochyta Leaf Blight

Kentucky Bluegrass thrives between 55-85 degrees. If we encounter sustained temperatures above or below those marks, the grass will sometimes try to go into dormancy to conserve nutrients. This is a natural occurrence and most of the time will be called Ascochyta Leaf Blight.

This issue is identified by pinched tips on the grass blades that brown out from the top down.

With proper watering, this typically goes away within 10-14 days from the initial appearance.

You can read more about Ascochyta Leaf Blight on the CSU Extension article.

We’re Colorado Springs’ Premium Lawn Care Provider. Contact Us Today Or Request A Free Quote.

What’s Wrong with My Tree? The 4 Most Common Tree Diseases You Need to Know in Colorado

Tue, 07 Jul 2026 10:48:21 GMT

Did you know that trees can get sick too? Just like humans, trees are vulnerable to disease. Diseased trees are not only unattractive, but they can infect surrounding plants and trees as well. This can cause great problems in the ecosystem, so action needs to be taken as soon as possible.

How do you know if a tree is infected? We look at some of the most common tree diseases and pests and how to spot them.

Emerald Ash Borer

This little beetle can cause major problems. If you notice the leaves turning yellow before fall and the branches start dying, you may have an emerald ash borer on your hands. This beetle infects all species of ash trees by digging into its bark and building panels throughout. While there are fungicides that can be used to eradicate the infection, the best way to protect surrounding trees and vegetation is to completely remove the infected tree.

Fire Blight

Fire blight is a bacterial disease that can kill branches, and the entire plant, of many members of the rose family, including apple, pear, quince and crabapple. Symptoms include dead branches, water-soaked blossoms, light brown to blackened leaves, discolored bark, black “shepherd’s crook” twigs, and dried fruits. Fire blight bacteria can be spread by insects, splashing rain or contaminated pruning tools so it is best to treat as quickly as possible. Treatment and management for Fire Blight includes planting resistant varieties of plants, minimizing rapid growth, pruning and the use of preventive chemical sprays.

Cytospora Canker

Cytospora canker is caused by several species of Cytospora fungi. This disease occurs on woody shrubs and trees or parts of plants that are slightly stressed. Many trees and shrubs can be affected by this disease (apple, ash, aspen, birch, cottonwood, elm, maple, peach, spruce, willow). The canker-causing fungi causes girdling of the plant, killing the plant above the canker. To manage Cytospora Canker, reduce stress on trees, use resistant plants, remove infected limbs, clean wounds and prune properly

Ips Beatles

Ips is a common group of bark beetles that infests pine and spruce trees. The good news is Ips Beetles rarely attack healthy trees. Most problems occur to newly transplanted pines or when plants are under stress. Symptom of Ips Beetles are typically seen as yellowish- or reddish-brown boring dust, which is produced as the insect tunnels, and accumulates in bark crevices or around the base of the tree. In addition, affected parts of the tree may discolor (“fade”) and even die. These symptoms may be limited to parts of the tree, such as a single branch or the top. However unlike Mountain Pine Beetles, infestation by Ips Beetles does not necessarily mean the whole tree will die, but over time, attacks may progress as later generations “fill” the tree and then ultimately the host can die. Management is typically done by spraying insecticide, promoting vigorous growth and clearing away any pruned branches.

Don’t stress about the tree diseases any longer. Contact J. Rick Lawn & Tree , Colorado Springs’ premium lawn care provider, today and get a free quote.

The Benefits of Lawn Aeration in the Spring

Tue, 07 Jul 2026 10:46:48 GMT

Lawn aeration is one of the most highly recommended grass services for a greener and thicker lawn. However, in Colorado, the weather changes every other day; as a result, determining the best time to aerate your grass can be difficult. Therefore, it is suggested that you should aerate your lawn during the cooler months, which is why we’ll look at the benefits of lawn aeration in the spring!

What is Lawn aeration?

If you love gardening or have a lawn, you may have heard of lawn aeration, even if you have no idea what it is. So, what is lawn aeration exactly? Just like humans require oxygen for survival, the lawn and soil need to breathe.

Aeration is all about making holes in the ground to provide oxygen to your soil. It means you’re poking holes to help the roots access important components like air and water. This method encourages the roots to grow deeper, resulting in stronger and more vibrant grass.

Why is it important to aerate your lawn?

Basic lawn care procedures such as appropriate mowing, watering, fertilizing, and aeration should be followed if you want to attain a beautiful lawn. But now the question arises why aerate lawn? So, here is why!

Aeration removes soil compaction
When soil is compacted, nutrients, air, and water fail in reaching the soil. This condition could result in grass thinning, dead sports, or patches. So, what does lawn aeration do in this situation?
During aeration, tiny cores and plugs are pulled up in the lawn; this helps soften the soil so that both water and air can easily reach the soil.
Aeration improves availability of nutrients
Lawn aeration provides important nutrients by penetrating deep into the soil to boost its ability to absorb nutrients more effectively, resulting in healthier grass. It also provides a space for plant roots to spread and expand, allowing them to grow.
Aeration helps remove lawn thatch
Thatch occurs when a layer of dead plant material builds up on your grass, surrounding its base. If thatch isn’t removed in spring it may become excessive, in turn depriving the roots of oxygen and essential nutrients.

Best time to aerate the lawn

Spring and fall both are the best seasons for lawn aeration. Both seasons have their own merits, the greening process is accelerated in springtime, while the underground root system is strengthened in the fall.

Benefits of lawn aeration in the spring

Spring season is preferred for lawn aeration because there are several benefits of lawn aeration in the spring. Here are a few of the advantages as to why:

Prepares the lawn
Aeration is best done in the spring since it helps you prepare your lawn for the warmer weather, and it ensures that new seeds germinate successfully. During the winter, the lawn grows a thatch, so when you aerate your lawn in spring, it becomes ready for summer.
Beneficial for clay soil
Clay soils are deficient in oxygen, and hence aeration helps to reintroduce oxygen to the grassroots. Aerating this kid of soil is crucial because it helps to keep the clay soil from being overly compacted, diminishing grass thickness.
Allows soil to heal
Aerating your grass in the spring allows it to recover and fill in the spaces left after the removal of soil plugs.

How to Tell if Your Lawn Needs Aeration

Many owners struggle with this question but all you have to do is look for some telltale signs.

Your Lawn Has Thin or Sparse Spots
There are many reasons why grass might be thinning, but a common reason is due to soil compaction. Thinning or bald patches are indicators that their roots are unable to get the proper nutrients or absorb water.
Your Lawn Has Discolored Areas
Yellow and brown grass is another warning sign that your lawn needs aeration. Discoloration is a sign your lawn isn’t getting enough water. And bad water absorption is another sign of compacted soil compaction is one of several reasons for discoloration in your yard.
Your Lawn Stopped Growing
Have you noticed your grass just doesn’t look like it’s doing anything? The fewer nutrients the roots receive means the less growth you’ll see. Your lawn is likely suffering from compacted soil and is in need of aeration and seeding.
Your Lawn Has a Thick Layer Thatch
If thatch becomes too thick (greater than ½ inch), then it can be detrimental to your lawn’s health. Aeration helps to decompose thatch at a faster rate.
Your Lawn Failed the Screwdriver Test
Using a 6” or larger screwdriver, or even a pencil, you can test to see how compacted the soil is. Stick the screwdriver into the ground, if you experience difficulty then your soil may be compacted and dehydrated.

With wishy-washing spring s in Colorado, aerating your lawn in the spring is essential to creating a healthy lawn year-round. To schedule your next aeration, please contact us.

How Ash Borers Damage Your Trees

Tue, 07 Jul 2026 10:43:46 GMT

The Emerald Ash Borer is a wood boring beetle, with a metallic green ½ inch long body originating from Asia, and was discovered in North America, in 2002. Although the 2002 finding was in Michigan, they were confirmed in Colorado by 2013. Emerald Ash Borers have killed hundreds of millions of trees in North America since their fateful arrival.

However, it’s not them you truly need to worry about, it’s their larvae. The larvae are small white grubs that tunnel under a tree’s bark, and can cause feeding damage to the heartwood of the tree that greatly weakens your trees. And more often causing the trees to break, and in rare, more severe, cases it can even cause their death.

What trees do Emerald Ash Borers attack?

Emerald Ash Borers feed on their namesake, the Ash Tree, and with continuous feeding, can kill the trees in 3-5 years. Colorado State University states that they expect Emerald Ash Borers to eventually kill almost every unprotected Ash tree growing in North America. Since its discovery in 2002, Emerald Ash Borers have killed or seriously damaged millions of native Ash trees.

Signs you have an infestation of Ash Borers:

If you have Ash trees on your property, remember to watch for the signs of Emerald Ash Borers. If you notice any of the following signs, or multiple signs, there’s a chance you have an infestation, and should take immediate action.

Thinning and Yellowing Leaves
Branches Beginning to Die
Suckering at the Lower Portions of the Trunk
Excessive Woodpeckers and Woodpecker Holes
Vertical Cracks in the Bark
D-Shaped Exit Holes

How to get rid of Ash Borers:

Emerald Ash Borers are one of the most common tree diseases . Worried you have an infestation? Well, first take a deep breath you can get rid of Emerald Ash Borers.

First, attempt to alleviate any tree stresses, and then treat with insecticide. This insecticide should be used as early as possible to ensure it eliminates the larvae. Keep in mind, soil insecticides aren’t as effective as bark ones. We understand that infestations can be stressful, especially ones as detrimental to a tree’s health.
If you’d rather leave your tree’s health to the professionals, we have a protection service targeted towards wood boring insects.

The Complete Guide to Watering Your Colorado Lawn

Tue, 07 Jul 2026 10:41:41 GMT

A healthy green rocky mountain lawn doesn’t have to be mystical or imaginary. With a little help from us, your lawn can be the talk of the neighborhood this summer.

What Causes Brown/Tan Lawns?

Daily temperatures of 80-90°(Grass Prefers temps in the 70° range) cause some grasses to shut down
Fast drying soil
Dramatic humidity, temperature, and weather fluctuations
Cutting grass too short
Underwatering your lawn

When Should I Start Watering My Lawn?

You should be watering your lawn all year long, but your Summer watering routine should begin in June and extend until September. You can see the guidelines for the rest of the Seasonal Watering below. It is important that during the summer months, you water consistently and at the right time of day. The best time to water grass, especially in the 90°+ weather, is in the early morning before 9am. Remember that you should also be watering when there is low to no wind.

��️ How Often Should You Test Your Soil in Colorado?

What Watering Method Should I Choose?

There are three primary ways to water your lawn: a basic hose, sprinkler systems and drip systems.

Basic Hose

Almost everyone has a basic hose in their yard, and while this can be used for watering, you may induce run-off into the street. It’s also easy to miss some spots, while overwatering others.

Sprinkler Systems

Overhead Sprinkler Systems can keep your watering consistent both in timing and in coverage. There are a variety of sprinkler head styles that are commonly used that will dictate actual watering time, however, integrated sprinkler systems are extremely common in suburban areas. The benefit in using these types of systems is that you can automate everything for the majority of the year.

Drip Style

Lastly is Drip style systems which work underground and are commonly found as a part of an integrated sprinkler system. The drip style can save water, due to the lack of evaporation that you see in sprinkler systems. However, the tubing can cause the soil to become less fertile, so that is why they are not widely used for lawns but instead for gardens and flower beds.

It should also be noted that newer trees should be watered with direct hose drips or soaker hoses once every few weeks.

The style of watering depends on your home, lifestyle, and what is convenient for you, but you should ensure you’re using a “Cycle and Soak” schedule.

The Cycle & Soak Method: How Long Should You Water Your Lawn Per Zone?

The Cycle and Soak Schedule allows water to deeply penetrate soil without causing water runoff. This method differs from a usual watering schedule by spacing out the watering. To use this method, divide your total watering time by 3. Water your turf in three short intervals, all in the same morning. Every type of watering should have different cycle times:

Rotor Heads: 15 Minutes
Stationary Pop Ups: 8 Minutes
Low Volume MP Rotator Heads: 30 Minutes

Note that these are averages, and your individual lawn may require different times. You should also water shaded or places with low drainage for shorter times.

If you’re in an area with quick drying soil or thin lawns, crabgrass and weeds are most likely to pop up as you water. These plants love the heat and you most likely won’t notice them until they’ve already filled your lawn. While we do offer weed and crabgrass treatment to help with this if it happens, penetration watering should help guard your lawn from these pests.

How Often Should I be Watering My Grass?

You should be watering your turf 2-3 times a week, in normal areas of your lawn. Twice a week is generally fine during the Summer months, and is in accordance with Colorado Springs watering restrictions. You should water three times a week in dry spots or if you have particularly dry soil. Dry soil usually consists of higher sand content or southern exposure, thus making it a prime candidate for the Cycle and Soak method for deep water penetration. Following proper watering schedules enables your water to soak in 4-6in, ensuring healthy root growth while reducing weed growth and disease.

Are All of These Guidelines Important?

In the short answer, Yes, and here’s why:

Watering during early morning minimizes risk for disease and minimizes evaporation
Proper watering is key for your lawn’s health
Deep watering ensures healthy root growth
Overwatering can cause shallow roots, unhealthy grass/plants/leaves, and makes your grass and foliage prone to weeds and disease.
Cycle and soak watering limits runoff and allows deep water penetration
Splitting watering between day and night can allow weeds to germinate
Colorado Springs has watering restrictions to limit watering to three times a week most years so do check with your local water company for your specific area’s guidelines.

How am I supposed to Remember All of That?

We know that we just gave you a lot of information, and that during the summer, your grass is the last thing you want to think about. Get out and enjoy time with your family, and let us handle your summer lawn care.

8 Common Colorado Pests and How to Prevent Them:

Tue, 07 Jul 2026 10:34:14 GMT

It’s that time of year. Time for sunshine, pool trips, hiking and the slightly less favorable, bugs. No one likes pest damage in their lawn or garden, but once you’ve read through this list, you should have a good idea of what you’re up against and how to get rid of them.

The Pests:

Aphids:

What they are:

Aphids are small insects that appear in a variety of colors. The best identifier of an aphid is its cornicles or tailpipes at the end of its abdomen. You can also identify an aphid feeding by their shed exoskeletons left on leaves. Long term aphid feeding can cause stunted or death shoots, limited growth, and twisted yellow leaves. They also carry different plant viruses.

How to get rid of them:

Monitor your plant’s leaves carefully throughout the growing season.
Use Pressurized water to spray the aphids off of leaves.
Remove weeds that these insects enjoy such as sowthistle.
Using Low Risk Pesticides.
Introduce natural predators to the area such as ladybugs and their larvae

Conclusion

No one likes pests ruining their summer, and if you’d rather not take time away from your summer vacation to chase mites down. Check out our Lawn Care services to help prevent the environment these pests love.

Whiteflies:

What they are:

Whiteflies are winged insects that are related to aphids. They’re often found in groups together under leaves. Whiteflies are usually introduced into your garden by the plants you bring home, so make sure you’re checking your plants carefully. With a whitefly infestation you’ll notice your plants becoming incredibly weak. Their leaves will yellow and wilt and eventually drop off the plant, eventually killing it.

How to get rid of them:

Blast the plants with a high power watering hose to dislodge them.
Vacuum the whiteflies off with a small handheld vacuum cleaner. Please note you should not dispose of these in your house trash can, as they will feast on your houseplants instead.
Introduce natural predators such as ladybugs, spiders or dragonflies.
Spray with a mixture of soap and water. The National Gardening Association suggests one squirt of soap to a gallon of water.

Psyllids:

What they are:

Not so affectionately dubbed as “plant lice”, psyllids are sap sucking insects that feed on one type of plant and sometimes related species. Psyllids also produce a sweet substance that attracts ants and mold as they eat. These pests aren’t always harmful, and in small quantities will likely have little to no effect on your garden. A problem occurs when you notice distorted terminals, less growth, and even discoloration. You should be especially cautious of these plant lice if you grow tomatoes, as they are highly affected by psyllids.

How to get rid of them:

Broad Spectrum Insecticides.
Soap and Water Spray.
Spraying Neem Oil.
Chemical Sprays for Psyllids

Flea Beetles:

What they are:

There are multiple species of flea beetles, each feeding on a different type of plant. They’re small, and are at biggest 1/4in long. They have varying colors but are usually found in black, bronze, blue, brown or gray. These beetles survive through the long winter and become active in spring to lay eggs. A good sign you have flea beetles is holes in your leaves and stems, these holes are rounded but irregular and smaller than ⅛ inch.

How to get rid of them:

Remove crop debris and weeds to limit food sources.
Plant a high value sacrificial plant and allow the beetles to feed, then spray them with insecticide.
Use natural predators for flea beetles such as lacewing larvae.
Dust leaves with talcum powder.
Spray the beetles with soapy water.

Japanese Beetles:

What they are:

Japanese beetles are an invasive species monitored by many Departments of Agriculture across the country. Their grubs eat grass roots, causing your lawn to brown and die. If that wasn’t bad enough, the adults eat 300 species of plants. These beetles are 1/2in long with a metallic green body and copper wings. These insects can do serious damage to trees, shrubs, flowers, vegetables and fruits. You can tell you have japanese beetles by the way your plants appear. Their feeding is characterized by feeding on the leaf in between veins, giving them a lace-like appearance. You can recognize their grubs by large deaf patches of grass and your grass being able to be moved like a carpet, as they have their roots severed.

How to get rid of them:

Handpick beetles into a bucket of soap water.
Cover plants in netting to protect them, this is not a feasible solution if they need pollination.
Allow natural predators such as wasps to help minimize population.
Apply parasitic nematodes to your grass to minimize grubs.
Use trichlorfon to kill the grubs, however this can also be harmful to bees.
Water your lawn less during beetle season.

Grasshoppers:

What they are:

Grasshoppers are a green or brown insect with large and powerful hind legs. Well known for jumping around with incredible height for their size, many do not know how harmful they can be to your plants. They feed on anything from weeds to crops and their population changes every year. You can identify grasshopper damage by the larger, round and jagged holes between the veins of your leaves.

How to get rid of them:

Use natural botanical enemies such as Nosema locustae or Entomophthora grylli.
Use natural predators such as bee flies, chickens and ground beetles.
Pull and control weeds in the area to minimize places for grasshoppers to lay eggs and to reduce food sources.
Apply garlic spray to deter the insects.
Dust leaves with flour to starve the pests.

Spider-Mites:

What they are:

Spider mites are more similar to spiders than insects and are classified as an arachnid. They’re tiny (around 1/50in long) and a red brown color as an adult. These creatures live on the underside of leaves in large groups. This enables them to feed on leaf tissue through tiny puncturing motions. With continuous feeding plants will start to yellow, dry up and leaves will begin to fall off. The first sign of an infestation is light dots on the top of leaves and/or thin webbing around leaves. Once you see that, you should strike before it gets even worse.

How to get rid of them:

Prune off any infected leaves and stems, or pull entire plants if necessary.
Spray leaves with a strong jet of water.
Support natural predators such as ladybugs and lacewing.
Spray neem oil on the plants.
Clean your leaves, dust attracts mites.
Use insecticide.

Ticks:

What they are:

Ticks are more harmful to you than your garden, these parasitic arachnids can cause serious health issues. These include lyme disease, tick paralysis, Borrelia miyamotoi Disease and many, many more. Protecting yourself from ticks while gardening or outside in general is very important for you and your family, as well as your furry friends.

Prevention For Humans:

Treat Clothing with 0.5% permethrin.
Use EPA Registered insect repellents.
Check your clothing and body after being outside.
Tuck Pant legs into socks.
If you do happen to find a tick, use the CDC’s tick removal guidelines

Prevention For Animals:

Check your pets regularly.
Reduce Tick habitat in your yard.
Buy Flea and Tick collars or medications.

8 Common Colorado Weeds and How-to Prevent Them.

Mon, 06 Jul 2026 10:48:43 GMT

Summer is a beautiful time of year, but it’s also the time of year those dreaded weeds try to take over your lawn and garden. Now is the perfect time to begin your final preparations to keep your greenery safe from them. Each weed is unique, so we’ll be sharing 8 common Colorado weeds, and how to prevent or combat each one.

The Weeds:

Lamb’s Quarters Chenopodiaceae Chenopodium album

What is it?

Lamb’s Quarters is incredibly common in Colorado. Like many other weeds, Lamb’s Quarters depend upon disturbed ground and is often foraged for its edible greens and seeds. The plant is related to spinach and is delicious in salads and sauteed. This does not mean you should keep it around, feel free to harvest it when you see it, but prolonged growth will enable it to take over your garden and lawn.

How to Prevent/Control It

Pre-emergent pesticides.
Consistent mowing.
Aerating your lawn.
Minimize foot traffic (Lamb’s Quarters likes disturbed ground, like places we walk).
If Lamb’s Quarters sprouts, use a pesticide for the seeds yet to sprout and hand pull the weed, preferably while the plant is still young. You can tell the plant is young by the blue/purple undertone on the underside of the leaves.

Bindweed Convolvulaceae Convulvus arvensis

What is It?

Bindweed, also known as Morning Glory or Creeping Jenny is a vining weed with small white flowers. Bindweed is loathed by many because it is so difficult to kill. The plant spreads with both seeds and by its roots, so if even a fraction of root is left in the ground, the bindweed will come back. It will come back again, and again, and again.

How to Prevent/Control It

Use landscape fabric under problem areas.
Use mulch around problem areas.
Careful application of total vegetation killer (this will kill everything it touches, so be very careful if you take this route).
Begin the hand weeding war. If you are consistent in pulling out the bindweed, you can tire the plant out over time.

Dandelions Asteraceae Taraxacum Verbascum

What is it?

Dandelions, hated by lawn owners and adored by their children. These little yellow flowers are well known all across the country. Dandelions are also edible, as long as they are not sprayed with a pesticide treatment. Many people make dandelion sweets with the flowered heads and use the bitter greens for salads. These yellow flowers form white seed heads that are carried off by wind and multiply.

How to Prevent/Control It

Cut at a higher mower setting, dandelions love the sun, so this can choke them out.

Use pre-emergent pesticides (Note: Do not prepare and eat dandelions sprayed with this, if they do sprout).

Adjust your soil’s PH to be more Basic.

Avoid hand weeding and reach for a trowel. Dandelions have tap roots so it is imperative to remove the entirety of them.

Quackgrass Poaceae Elytrigia repens

What is It?

Quackgrass is a weed that resembles crabgrass and ryegrass but they are not the same. Quackgrass, unlike crabgrass, has a deep root system that it uses to spread all across your lawn. It often gets into your lawn via seeds, spreading rhizomes from a neighbors yard or even straw bales. It is also on the Colorado Noxious Weed List as a C species.

How to Prevent/Control It

Kochia Chenopodiaceae Kochia scopariaa

What is It?

Similar to Lamb’s quarters, Kochia is also a member of the goosefoot family and is also edible. The plant is incredibly salty, and the seeds are often called “land caviar” due to their similar texture. Because it spreads through seeds, it is fairly easy to hand weed kochia, but you should do it while it’s young. Similar to Lamb’s quarters, you can tell the plant is young from the blue-purple tint on the underside of the leaves.

How to Prevent/Control It

Mow or slash the plants before they can flower to limit seed production.
Hand weed while the plant is young.
Use fluroxypyr herbicide.
Till the ground well in Spring to limit them.

Purslane Portulacaceae Portulaca oleracea

What is It?

Purslane is another delicious edible weed, it’s high in omega-3 fatty acids and is incredibly healthy for you. However, it’s not healthy for your lawn or garden. Despite its health benefits and watercress-like flavor, it can and will take over all of your other plants. When given the chance to seed, a single plant can produce over 200,000 seeds. Don’t fret, you can hand weed these.

How to Prevent/Control It

Hand weed while the plant is young.
Double bag the weeded plants to ensure no seeds can make their way back to your yard or garden.
Mulch around the problem area or cover with landscape fabric.
Use herbicide only if the plants are young, it is not as effective on more mature plants.

Creeping Thistle Cirsium arvense

What is It?

Creeping Thistle, also known as Canada Thistle is a weed known for its small purple flower heads and white fluff. The plant can grow up to 5ft tall and spreads through both roots and seeds. It is highly adaptive, which makes it a nuisance to get rid of, and once they appear, it’s better to do everything in your power to control the spread.

How to Prevent/Control It

Cover problem areas with an opaque covering to ensure they get no sunlight.
Dig up any young plants the moment they appear. Remove all roots.
Seal plants in bags once removed, and leave bags in the heat until they die.
Mow before the seed-bearing begins to remove the heads and reduce spread.

Curly Dock Rumex crispus

What is It?

Curly Dock is a member of the buckwheat family that many foragers enjoy eating. It is a versatile ingredient, and an even more versatile garden invader. The seeds of a Curly Dock can lay dormant underground for 50 years and still be capable of germinating. Which is only part of why it feels so impossible to get rid of, they also spread underground via their roots and can form huge clusters.

How to Prevent/Control It

Mow Regularly.
DO NOT ALLOW ANIMALS TO GRAZE ON IT TO CUT IT DOWN. It is incredibly toxic to livestock.
Pre-emergent pesticides.
Herbicides containing Dicamba or Chaparral.

Still Struggling With Weeds?

We’re here to help. Check out our Bed Weed Control Program .

5 Deer Resistant Plants

Mon, 06 Jul 2026 09:42:24 GMT

If your garden ends up in pieces due to deer in your area, this is the list for you. Of course, deer resistant plants may still be nibbled on, but they’re a lot less appealing than your neighbor’s hostas or tulips. Deer (and rabbits) generally dislike highly fragrant plants, so if none of the plants on this list appeal to you, keep that in mind when shopping for your flower beds. Disclaimer aside, here’s five plants for your flower beds that deer will steer clear from:

Coreopsis

Coreopsis flowers are a great option, not only because deer don’t like them, but because they’re so easy to take care of. They are tolerant of droughts, which is important in Colorado, and they have many variations of colors to choose from. It is often said that Coreopsis “thrive on neglect”, so even the worst gardener can keep them alive. Another great thing? They bloom for months, so you’ll have plenty of time to enjoy them.

Lamb’s Ear

Another drought friendly plant, this velvety plant can grow almost anywhere. They’re perfect for ground cover, and filling in space in your flower beds. You only need to water them if the soil is incredibly dry, and spreading mulch under the leaves makes them almost indestructible no matter the conditions. Deer dislike these plants due to their texture and flavor.

Allium

Don’t let these cute floral lollipops fool you, they don’t taste sweet. Alliums are a member of the onion family so they don’t taste good to deer. Alliums thrive in the sun, so consider this before planting. They also prefer a little bit of moisture, but their bulbs can rot if too wet. Another thing to consider is wind: Alliums stalks are generally strong, but consistent strong bursts of wind may require your Alliums to be staked. Although they are more work than the previous options, they are incredibly unique looking plants that can add character to an otherwise plain planter.

Echinacea

Not only are these daisy family plants aesthetically pleasing, they have many health benefits. In fact, Echinacea vitamin supplements are sold to improve immunity, blood sugar, anxiety and inflammation. It can also be used to shorten the common cold and flu and reduce symptoms. It’s fairly easy to grow, enjoying partial shade and drier soil, only really needing watering as young plants. Echinacea are a three in one: they add beauty to your flower beds, are deer resistant, and can be used as holistic treatment.

Penstemon

Nicknamed “Beardtongues”, these flowers have an interesting appearance. Their blooms are funnel or trumpet-shaped and are available in many colors. They are incredibly drought tolerant, and can even grow in soil that is mostly sand or gravel. They have the best color when grown in full sunlight but can survive in partial sun as well. If you’re looking for another unique addition, consider Penstemons.

Deer-Free! But what about weeds?

Now that your flower beds are no longer torn apart by passer-by grazers, you might notice weeds popping up. Read about the 8 Most Common Weeds in Colorado, or Leave it to the professionals and try out our Bed Weed Control Program .

Debunking the Myths: The Truth about Overseeding for a Lush Lawn in Colorado Springs

Mon, 06 Jul 2026 09:32:18 GMT

Do you ever look at your neighbor’s lawn and wonder if their grass really is greener? Keeping your lawn thick, lush, and green in Colorado Springs can be challenging due to the semi-arid climate, freezing weather, water restrictions, and common local lawn diseases. Overseeding is one tactic that can help improve the health and appearance of your Colorado Springs lawn, but this trick requires a bit of finesse and know-how to get the best results.

Find out how to seed your lawn for maximum benefits, uncover the biggest myths about overseeding, and discover the best seed types for the region so you can confidently grow a lawn that will turn your neighbors absolutely green with envy.

What is Overseeding?

Lawn overseeding is adding grass seed to your existing lawn to improve its health and appearance.

There are a number of benefits to lawn seeding , including:

Adding more color to your lawn
Adding diverse grass types to your lawn
Creating a thicker, lusher lawn
Filling in brown or dead spots
Better resistance to damaging insects, diseases, and drought

How to Overseed a Lawn

While overseeding sounds pretty simple, there’s more to it than tossing some grass seed onto those bare, brown patches and hoping it magically transforms into a lush carpet of envy-inducing lawn.

Getting the best results from seeding requires the right:

Type of seed
Lawn preparation
Equipment
Watering routine
Mowing schedule

Over the years, we’ve answered many questions about overseeding in Colorado Springs . Here are the answers and tips our certified J. Rick Lawn & Tree technicians want you to know about the right — and wrong — way to seed your lawn.

When Should I Overseed My Lawn?

In Colorado Springs, the best time to seed a lawn is when the air temperature has consistently reached temperatures of 65-70°F and irrigation systems have been turned back on.

Fall is the ideal time to seed, but don’t wait too long. Prep your lawn and seed by September at the latest. Late spring is also a popular time for seeding; however, be aware that you may have to deal with more weed issues in the spring compared to the fall.

What Types of Seed is Best When Overseeding?

Choosing the best lawn seed means understanding what grass grows best in Colorado and what benefits you’re looking to add to your existing lawn.

Because of its unique climate, the best grass to grow in Colorado Springs is drought-resistant and appropriate for cool seasons, such as:

Kentucky Bluegrass
Buffalograss
Blue Grama
Fine and Tall Fescue
Cool Season Grass Blends

Pro Tip: A blend of grass seeds can help you reap the benefits of various types of grass while mitigating any less-than-desirable features of any single type. Look for a coated seed; the additional coating includes fertilizer and weed killer that can improve the germination rate.

How to Prepare Your Lawn Before Adding Seed

Preparing your lawn for seeding is just as important as selecting the right type of seed. The biggest mistake you can make when seeding is tossing a handful of seeds out on a patch of grass without preparation.

Grass seed needs good soil contact to successfully germinate. That means you need to clear the way for seed to reach soil.

Start by mowing your lawn short (2.5 – 3 inches), then raking up and removing grass clippings.

Prepare the soil by aerating your lawn . At J. Rick Lawn & Tree, we always provide an aeration service before reseeding to give the best “seed to soil” contact and to minimize seed loss due to wind and birds.

Test your soil . Your soil may need additional nutrients to balance your lawn before seeding, but adding unnecessary fertilizer when it doesn’t need it could do more harm than good to your grass (and the environment). A lawn care company can help you test your soil and recommend the right type of fertilizer to add at this step.

Get to seeding . The right equipment can play a major factor in lawn success when overseeding a lawn. Lawn care professionals typically use a chest-mounted spreader to apply seed. As a residential homeowner, you may use a similar chest-mounted rotary spreader or a handhold rotary spreader. When choosing a spreader to rent, borrow, or buy, be sure you can control the flow setting to get the desired coverage rate for your seed. Also, be sure there a deflector, which can help prevent seed from ending up in garden beds or edging. Apply the first half in even lines walking North to South, and then apply the other half in even lines as you walk East to West for full coverage.

How Much Grass Seed for Overseeding?

For establishing a full, turf-type lawn from seed, you’ll want to use 2-3 pounds of Kentucky Bluegrass seed or 4-9 pounds of tall fescue per 1,000 sq. feet of lawn.

Should I Kill Weeds Before Overseeding?

Killing weeds should be part of your preparation phase before seeding. You’ll want to kill weeds and undesired grass before seeding. Your herbicide (weedkiller) will determine how long you have to wait before adding seed to your lawn. Commercial-grade pre-emergent herbicides may need to be applied 8-12 weeks before you can seed.

If you plan on killing weeds or grass before overseeding your lawn, be sure to consult the product label. We like to say, “The label is law,” when it comes to weed control, fertilizer, or seed products. Follow the directions provided or reach out to lawn care professional for a reseeding timeline based on the products you’re using.

When to Fertilize for Overseeding

If your grass is brown and looks dead, you may think you need to add more fertilizer. But if your grass has reached the end of its annual growth cycle, dumping more fertilizer on top could be damaging. Test your soil before seeding to see if you need to add nutrients, or ask a lawn care service to test and recommend the best fertilizer to use before adding seed.

When to Mow After Overseeding

While you may be tempted to protect those brand-new budding little grass babies from the mower, you’ll want to mow as soon as possible. Mowing your seeded grass helps encourage secondary stem development, making plantings thicken and controlling weeds while the seedlings establish.

 Pro Tip: Make sure your mower blade is nice and sharp so it’s actually cutting the seedlings. A dull blade could tear and rip up your seedlings and keep you from achieving lawn success.

When Should I Water After Seeding?

Most people start looking into overseeding as a way to improve the appearance of their lawns. But you may be surprised to learn that adding seed to your existing grass can bring long-lasting benefits to the health of your lawn, as well.

Overseeding can help with weed control. Drought conditions can thin grass, which creates an attractive environment for weeds to spring up. When you fill in sparse grass areas with grass seed and thicken up your turf, you’ll naturally minimize lawn weeds. Over a decade of research has shown that overseeding is a beneficial weed management tool .

Mixing together different seed types is a tactic used by the most prestigious golf courses in the world to ensure their grass is always greener, no matter the season. Warm-season grass, such as buffalograss, can go dormant in the winter and can display a tan color in early spring and late fall. Studies have shown that adding a cool-season grass like blue fescue to buffalograss enhanced spring green up, fall color retention, and turf quality .

Overseeding can protect turf density, as researchers from Cornell and other universities discovered. These universities found that overseeding weekly under high-traffic conditions preserved 90% turf density. Now, your lawn may not be put under the same high-traffic, strenuous conditions as a university football field, but if you have consistent high-traffic, regular overseeding can help protect and maintain your lawn.

If your lawn was established a long time ago , there’s a chance the grass varieties are less advanced than the grass used today. Overseeding with “modern” seed types and blends can better help your lawn resist insects, disease, and drought than previous grass types.

Long-Term Benefits of Overseeding

Water techniques are another important factor in achieving a luscious lawn. Your goal is to keep the top 1/2 – 1 inch of soil damp, but not soak the soil to the point that you’re washing the seeds away.

During the first two weeks, water your soil gently 2 – 4 times a day to help your seeds germinate. (This may vary depending on temperature.) As your seedlings develop, you’ll taper off your daily watering schedule. Once they’ve reached mowing height, you can cut watering back to 2 – 3 times a week. As your grass grows, you’ll water less often but more deeply with each application to encourage root development.

Myths and Misconceptions About Overseeding

Despite the numerous visual and health benefits that come with adding more seed to your existing lawn, some people still feel skeptical about overseeding. Our experienced seeding technicians hear misguided and misinformed myths all of the time, including:

Is Overseeding Really Necessary?

Like any lawn care tactic, overseeding may not be necessary if you don’t care about the health or appearance of your lawn. You don’t have to seed, fertilize, mow, or even water a lawn – that is, unless you want to keep it. But for the homeowner or renter who wants a lush, green, and healthy lawn that looks good year-round, naturally repels weeds and insects, and is free from brown, bare patches… overseeding is the secret to an enviable lawn. It’s the same tactic golf course superintendents, university grounds maintenance crews, and lawn care professionals use to get fantastic results.

Overseeding is Too Complicated

Overseeding requires preparation and planning to get the best results, but the process is simple. Once you understand what time of year is best to seed, which types of seed you want to utilize, and how to prep your soil and lawn to receive the seed, anyone with access to the right equipment can seed their own law.

Of course, you can make overseeding even easier by calling a team of professionals to do the job. We help Colorado Springs residents get the lawns of their dreams through overseeding. Getting a green lawn is as easy as picking up the phone and calling the professional technicians at J. Rick Lawn & Tree.

Overseeding is Too Costly

Grass seed is relatively inexpensive, and overseeding costs far less than tearing your lawn apart and laying sod to start fresh. Even if you call in a team of professionals to seed for you, the cost is surprisingly affordable. Our lawn overseeding services start at just over $120/ application for yards sized under 2,000 sq. feet. Find more details on seeding pricing here .

Should You Overseed Your Lawn?

Overseeding is a not-so-secret lawncare trick that professional lawncare services, universities, and world-renowned golf courses deploy to keep lawns looking lush and green year-round. It can help fill in sparse, brown spots, fight weeds, and protect your lawn against insects and disease.

While naysayers may mistakenly believe that overseeding is overly complicated, expensive, or unnecessary, our clients have experienced the opposite. They love the look of their lawns and the ease and affordability of letting our professional certified technicians overseed to create lawns that look plush, gorgeous, and healthy all year long.

To get a quote for overseeding your Colorado Springs lawn, contact our team at J. Rick Tree & Lawn today .

How to Choose the Best Types of Grass for Colorado Springs Homes

Mon, 06 Jul 2026 09:31:33 GMT

If you’ve struggled to keep a lush, green lawn in Colorado Springs, you’re not alone. Growing healthy Colorado grass can be challenging due to the region’s unique climate—cold, arid conditions—and soil composition. Choosing the right turf type is critical if you want a healthy and attractive lawn.

Understanding Climate and Soil in Colorado Springs

The combination of warm summers with extended stretches of sunshine and cold, snowy winters has earned Colorado Springs the official climate designation of “alpine desert.” While this unique climate makes the area a wonderful place to live, it can pose a bit of a challenge when trying to grow a gorgeous green lawn.

While it may not happen frequently, the temperatures can dramatically shift from balmy, warm weather to freezing cold and snow in as little as 24 hours.

As if that wasn’t enough, the heavy clay soil found in many areas of Colorado Springs can make it even more difficult for lawns to thrive (and gardens to grow).

Clay soils can limit root growth because of poor aeration. Wind and low humidity can lead to soil water loss, but adding more water to the ground can reduce the amount of oxygen that gets to the roots of grasses and plants (oxygen starvation). Finally, Colorado Springs soil has an 8.5 pH (a measure of acidity or alkalinity), which is higher than many plants and grasses can tolerate.

Before you throw in your garden trowel and lawnmower, take heart. The long stretches of sunshine, crisp cool nights, and warm summer days mean you can have a healthy lawn in Colorado Springs—you just need the right approach to growing strong Colorado grass

The Best Types of Lawn Grass for Colorado Springs

Choosing the best grass seed for Colorado depends on your soil conditions, sun exposure, and how much maintenance you’re willing to provide. Turf grass generally comes in two categories: cool-season and warm-season grass.

Warm-season grasses are well adapted to hot, dry weather and grow in the summer months. Because they thrive in hot, dry climates, warm-season grasses are drought-tolerant. Warm-season grasses tend to brown in the cooler months and can be more prone to diseases in late fall through early spring.

Warm-season grass types include:

Bermuda Grass
Zoysia Grass
Buffalo Grass

Cool-season grasses are well adapted to cooler climates. Cool-season grass grows quickly in the spring and fall and continues until the soil freezes. Drought and high heat can cause cool-season grasses to brown in warmer temperatures. Cool-season grasses can be more prone to disease infestations during the summer.

Cool-season grass types include:

Kentucky Bluegrass
Perennial Ryegrass
Fine Fescues

Colorado Springs has cool and warm weather conditions and is considered a “transition zone.” The transition zone runs across the center of the United States between the cooler Northern states and warmer Southern states. It can be difficult to get year-round green in the transition zone; warm-season grasses don’t do well in freezing temperatures, while cool-season grasses will go dormant and brown in hot, arid summers.

Grass types that do particularly well in Colorado Springs include Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, and buffalo grass.

Kentucky Bluegrass

Kentucky bluegrass is soft to the touch and exceptionally cold-hardy. Kentucky bluegrass is slow to germinate and can take months to establish, but then spreads quickly. Kentucky bluegrass looks and feels great but needs more water and fertilizer during summer and can be disease-prone if not regularly watered.

Soft underfoot
Cold tolerant
Mix with fescues to be hardier and more disease-resistant
Seeding rate: 3 to 4 pounds/1,000 square feet

Tall Fescue

Tall fescue is a hardy, low-maintenance grass that’s great for high-traffic areas. Tall fescue grass grows well in full sun to partial shade, has a high heat/ drought tolerance, and does well in moist clay soils.

Highly pest resistant
Full sun to partial shade
Mixes well with Kentucky bluegrass
Seeding rate: 7 pounds/1,000 square feet

Buffalo Grass

Buffalo grass is a warm-season grass that can be low-maintenance once it’s established. While it needs plenty of water to be established, well-established buffalo grass can survive without irrigation. However, non-irrigated buffalo grass will go dormant in the summer, which can make it prone to weed invasion.

Full sun to partial shade
Disease resistant
Needs little water once established
Seeding rate: 3 to 5 pounds/1,000 square feet

Choosing a Turf Type for Your Colorado Springs Lawn

Understanding which types of lawns grow best in Colorado Springs is a great place to start, but your property will have its own unique factors that determine the best turf type for you.

Before deciding on the best grass your yard, consider some of the following:

Sun vs. Shade

Is your yard fully or partially shaded, or does it get direct sun all day? Warmer-season grasses will love your sun-drenched yard, while cooler-season grasses may be more suitable for a full-shade yard. Consider the amount of sun vs. shade your yard gets when selecting your grass type.

Water

While grasses like Kentucky bluegrass and buffalo grass initially require the same amount of water to establish, their watering requirements differ once they’ve matured. If you’re looking for drought-tolerant grass that requires little to no irrigation, you may prefer low-water grass like buffalo grass. On the other hand, if the soft foot feel of Kentucky bluegrass is important to you, you’ll need to be prepared for the water needs of that particular type.

Lifestyle

Warm-season grasses tend to go dormant in the winter while cool-season grasses brown in the summer. Which time of year will you want to enjoy your lawn? If your family embraces the warm summer months in Colorado Springs and spends considerable time outdoors for backyard BBQs and get-togethers, warm-season grass may be a better fit for your individual lifestyle.

How to Establish and Maintain Your Lawn Grass

Once you’ve selected the best type of grass for your yard, understanding how to establish and maintain your lawn correctly can help improve its health and appearance.

Tips For Establishing A Lawn In Colorado Springs

If you’re repairing your lawn, you may be wondering when is the best time to seed bare spots in lawn areas. The same seasonal guidelines apply—early fall is ideal for cool-season grasses, while late spring to early summer works best for warm-season varieties.

The best time to seed cool-season grasses (bluegrass and tall fescue) is mid-August to mid-September. Cool-season grasses can also be seeded in the spring as soon as temperatures warm.
The best time to seed warm-season grasses (buffalograss) is April through July.
Avoid: seeding after the first fall frost and after July.
Apply starter fertilizer at the rate recommended on the label.
Irrigate the area to maintain consistently moist–but not saturated– soil. Check moisture levels in the underlying soil to prevent excessive irrigation.
Grass will germinate and grow more vigorously in aerification holes or slits made by the power rake.
Begin mowing the lawn when it has grown to about 2 1/2 inches.
Keep traffic, including children and pets, off the lawn as much as possible until you mow it a few times and the new grass matures.
Only spray herbicides to control visible weeds on the new lawn once you’ve mowed five to six times.
Refrain from over-fertilizing to make the new lawn grow faster.
Always read and follow the label instructions for fertilizer and herbicide products. Remember: the label is law!

Watering Tips

Let grass species, health, soil conditions, and weather dictate watering practices.
Shady lawns and areas protected from the wind require less water during the growing season than more exposed turf.
Healthy turf (fertilized, mowed) uses water more efficiently.
Each time you water, apply enough water to moisten as much of the root zone as possible.
Grass growing in sandy soil must be watered more often than grass growing in clay or loam soils.
During extended dry periods (late fall to spring), you may need to water every four to six weeks if the ground is thawed.
The optimal time of day to water is late evening and early morning (between 10 p.m. and midnight or 8 and 9 a.m.)

Mowing Tips

Mowing height and frequency are key to a healthy lawn.
The preferred mowing height for all Colorado-friendly grass species is 2.5 to 3 inches.
Mow the lawn at the same height all year.
Mow the turf frequently enough to remove no more than 1/3 of the grass height at any single time. (Example: mow the grass when it is 3 inches tal to obtain a 2-inch length).
Let grass clippings fall back onto the lawn, if possible. Grass clippings decompose quickly and provide a source of recycled nutrients and organic “food” for the lawn.
Regularly check mowing equipment for sharpness and adjustment.

Enjoy a Beautiful Colorado Springs Lawn

The unique climate and location of Colorado Springs can pose a challenge for growing and maintaining a healthy, attractive lawn. But it’s not impossible to get a lush, green lawn you’ll love. With the right knowledge, proper timing, and the best approach to growing Colorado grass, you can create a lawn that thrives year-round.

Selecting the right grass type is just the beginning—proper establishment and maintenance are equally important.

If you feel overwhelmed by the process, J. Rick Lawn and Tree Care is here to help. Our experts can guide you in choosing the best grass seed for Colorado, planting at the right time, and maintaining a lawn you’ll be proud of.

Our lawn care experts are happy to help you get the lawn of your dreams.

How to Keep Weeds Out of Your Garden in Colorado’s Unpredictable Seasons

Mon, 06 Jul 2026 09:18:57 GMT

Weeds are unwelcome guests in a Colorado Springs yard. Wild weeds can transform an idyllic green space into a gardener’s nightmare. Due to Colorado Springs’ unpredictable spring and summer weather patterns, weeds can sometimes gain the upper hand, robbing your plants of water, nutrients, and other resources. Certain weed species can quickly overtake an entire yard quickly, so it’s important to tame these invaders before your garden beds suffer the consequences.

Understanding Colorado’s Weather and Its Impact on Weeds

The unpredictable climate of Colorado Springs – with its warm, dry summers and cold winters – provides an excellent breeding ground for weeds. Fluctuating temperatures, sporadic rain showers, and variations in humidity can inadvertently give some weeds a growth advantage. A sudden rainstorm following a dry period can spur rapid weed growth. This unpredictability necessitates proactive, season-adapting weed control strategies.

Best Prevention Practices for Weed Control

You’ll need to be proactive to protect your beloved flower beds, vegetable gardens, ornamental shrubs, and lush lawns against resource-robbing wild weeds. Proactive prevention remains the best strategy against weed invasion.

Soil Preparation: Begin with a well-prepared garden bed. Turn the soil regularly, allowing it to breathe and disrupt budding weed growth.
Mulching : A proper layer of mulch (no more than 2 inches) around your plants keeps the soil warmer and moister while preventing weed growth. A sufficient layer of mulch will prevent soil from receiving sunlight and weeds from sprouting. If you use organic mulch, make sure it contains no weed seeds.
Plant Local Natives: Plants native to Colorado or those suited to its semi-arid conditions can outcompete common garden weeds. By carefully spacing these plants, you reduce spaces for weeds to flourish.
Prevent Weeds with Pre-Emergent: A pre-emergent herbicide is a weed control product used to prevent the germination and growth of weed seeds before they emerge from the soil. Unlike post-emergent herbicides, which are applied to actively growing weeds, pre-emergent herbicides are applied to the soil prior to weed seed germination.

Control Methods for Tackling Existing Weeds

If you didn’t get a chance to take preventive weed control measures, don’t despair. You can still protect your Colorado Springs garden beds against existing weeds using the following weed control methods:

Hand-pulling: Hand-pulling weeds is a classic method for a reason. Hand pulling can be effective so long as you ensure you pull out all the roots to prevent regrowth and pull before flowering.
Mowing: Mowing can help to limit seed production. Mowing must be done when flower heads are produced, which happens around April for winter and in the summer months for summer annuals.
Post-emergent Herbicides: Post-emergent herbicides will kill weeds actively growing when the herbicides are applied. Some post-emergent herbicides, such as 2,4-D, and dicamba, offer broadleaf weed control without harming lawngrass. Others will kill any plant they encounter, including your lawn. Be sure to understand your herbicide or bring in a lawn and garden professional to protect your lawns, garden beds, and ornamental shrubs.

Common Garden Weeds in Colorado and How to Control Them

Several weeds are notorious invaders of Colorado Springs gardens. Some of the more common Colorado weeds you may find invading your yard and garden include:

Colorado Tumbleweed
Bindweed
Vineweed
Henbit
Dandelions
Lamb’s Quarters
Quackgrass
Flixweed
Purslane
Prickly Lettuce
Creeping Thistle
Sow Thistle

Here’s how to identify and address some of the biggest threats to your garden.

Field Bindweed: Convolvulaceae Convulvus Arvensis

Often mistaken for Morning Glory, Field Bindweed is a flowering weed that refuses to give up. Its relentless nature, sprouting from both seeds and resilient roots, makes it a gardener’s nightmare. (They’re also classified as a Noxious Weed for Colorado.)

How to Control Field Bindweed

Incorporate landscape fabric in high-risk zones.
Mulch aggressively around the problematic areas.
Consistent hand weeding can eventually exhaust the plant.
Total vegetation killer might be effective but use cautiously as it can take out every plant it touches.

Dandelions: Asteraceae Taraxacum Verbascum

The dandelion may delight children and make an edible addition to a forager’s kitchen, but it’s an unwelcome guest in the garden.

How to Control Dandelions

Mow higher to block their sun.
Deploy pre-emergent pesticides (avoid eating if sprayed).
Adjust soil pH levels to a more alkaline state.
Dig deep with a trowel to tackle their tap roots.

Quackgrass: Poaceae Elytrigia Repens

With its uncanny resemblance to other grasses, quackgrass will test a gardener’s patience with its deep rooting system that quickly spreads across a lawn. (Quackgrass is on the Noxious Weed list for Colorado.)

How to Control Quackgrass

Use non-selective herbicides to target growth, followed by reseeding.
Opt for higher mowing settings.
Nurture a lush, robust lawn to discourage seeding.
Regularly apply nitrogen-based fertilizers.

Purslane: Portulacaceae Portulaca Oleracea

Purslane is a health-promoting edible weed. It might offer health benefits, but it’s a relentless garden adversary. One plant has the potential to produce over 200,000 seeds and quickly overtake your garden.

How to Control Purslane

Hand-weed young plants.
Double-bag plants after weeding to prevent reseeding.
Mulch heavily or use landscape fabric.
Young plants might be vulnerable to herbicides, but it’s not as effective on hardier mature purslane.

Maintenance and Long-term Strategies for Weed Control

The best prevention and control for weeds is maintaining a healthy Colorado Springs landscape with limited bare soil. When you have a properly maintained, lush lawn and healthy ornamental plants surrounded with mulch, weeds don’t gain an advantage.

Keep weeds at bay with these three steps:

Prevention: stay vigilant with prevention practices such as mulching and mowing. Healthy lawns and ornamental plants will help resist weed growth.
Manual Control: manually remove weeds by hand at the first sign of weed growth. (This is also known as cultural control.)
Chemical Herbicides: pre-emergent herbicides can prevent weed growth, while post-emergent herbicides can address actively growing weeds. Be sure you understand which herbicides you are using and whether you’ve selected one that will selectively kill weeds or blanket-kill everything it touches, including your lawn.

A beautiful Colorado Springs garden requires proactive prevention, vigilant maintenance, and adapting strategies tailored to the area’s unique climate. While weeds can grow freely in the local climate, a weed-free garden is more than achievable. Should you find the battle against weeds challenging, local experts, like those at JRick Lawn and Tree, are ready to assist with bed weed control services. Don’t lose the battle against invasive weeds; your lawn and garden deserves the best care possible.

Get your weeds undercontrol with bed weed services from Colorado Springs landscape experts JRick Lawn and Tree today.

Demystifying Noxious Weeds: What Colorado Landowners Need to Know About Identification and Removal

Mon, 06 Jul 2026 09:17:22 GMT

Some weeds are a nuisance: they invade lawns and garden beds, fighting your plants and flowers for resources and interfering with the beauty of your yard. Other weeds are far more insidious, threatening the ecological health of Colorado. These weeds are known as noxious weeds.

Noxious weeds, often deceptive in their appearance, threaten the balance of our local ecosystems. As stewards of the land, landowners play a pivotal role in combatting this menace. The impact of these invasive plants extends far beyond their immediate vicinity, affecting Colorado’s wildlife, water sources, and the natural beauty of our beloved state.

Understanding Noxious Weeds

Noxious weeds, by definition, are invasive species known to wreak havoc on ecosystems by suppressing native flora. Their introduction in Colorado’s varied ecosystems has caused a significant imbalance, leading to soil erosion and reducing biodiversity. Noxious weeds aggressively consume vital nutrients, starving native plants. The cascading effect also influences local animal life, diminishing food sources and altering habitats.

Noxious weeds have repeatedly threatened ecosystems worldwide, leading to reduced biodiversity, altered habitats, and even economic repercussions.

Here are a few ways noxious weeds have changed ecosystems across the U.S.

Purple Loosestrife in North American Wetlands

Introduced from Europe and Asia in the 19th century, purple loosestrife (Lythrum salicaria) quickly spread across North American wetlands. Purple loosestrife originated in Europe and Asia and was likely introduced to North America in the early 1800s via ship and as an ornamental garden plant. Its striking purple flowers made it popular for decorative purposes.

However, the plant’s aggressive growth and lack of natural predators in North America led to it spreading rapidly and displacing native plant species in wetland habitats. This invasive weed degrades wetland habitats crucial for species like waterfowl, amphibians, and other wildlife. The plant’s spread has disrupted natural water flows, leading to increased siltation in waterways.

Cheatgrass / Downy Brome in the Western U.S.

Cheatgrass, also called Downy Brome, (Bromus tectorum) is an invasive grass from Europe and Western Asia. It was introduced in the 19th century via ship and contaminated crop seeds.

Cheatgrass is a quick-growing annual grass notorious for its rapid spread across the rangelands of the western United States, out-competing native plants. Its dry nature increases the frequency and severity of wildfires, further impacting the native flora and fauna. Additionally, cheatgrass provides little nutritional value for grazing animals, negatively affecting

Kudzu in the Southern U.S.

Originally introduced from Japan for erosion control and as a forage crop, kudzu (Pueraria montana var. lobata) quickly became a menace. It can quickly cover and smother utility poles, buildings, and other infrastructure.

Often referred to as “the vine that ate the South,” kudzu covers and suffocates native plants, trees, and structures with its rapid growth. Kudzo consumes 120,000 acres per year. This rampant growth has a cascading effect on the ecosystem, reducing biodiversity, eroding soil, and altering animal habitats.

These real-life scenarios underscore the importance of managing noxious weeds and taking preventive measures to stop their spread. Noxious weeds must be recognized, prevented, and properly removed to protect Colorado’s natural ecosystem.

Identifying Noxious Weeds in Colorado

Recognizing noxious weeds is the first step to protecting our home state. Unfortunately, it’s not always easy to distinguish between natural wildflowers and noxious invasive weed species that threaten the local ecosystem.

Many noxious weeds were brought over in the 1800s from other countries to be used as ornamental garden plants, and their attractive blooms may not give them away as a danger to natural habitats.

Using state-sanctioned resources, like the Colorado Department of Agriculture’s guide to noxious weeds, can help you accurately identify the invasive species most likely to impact your home and garden.

Dangers and Introduction of Noxious Weeds in the Colorado Ecosystem

Unfortunately, Colorad’s natural beauty and habitats are threatened by invasive species of noxious weeds. You may have seen these species crowding meadows and waterways throughout the state or even growing in your own backyard.

Orange Hawkweed (Hieracium aurantiacum)

Often mistaken for a simple wildflower, Orange Hawkweed has bright orange petals. This perennial can rapidly dominate meadows, crowding out native grasses.

While the origin of this noxious weed isn’t known, it’s believed that Orange Hawkweed was introduced to North America as a garden ornamental. The seeds might have been transported unintentionally through gardening materials or dispersed from cultivated gardens into wild areas.

This aggressive plant can form dense mats, replacing native vegetation and reducing forage for wildlife. Its rapid growth can alter soil nutrients, further inhibiting the growth of native plants. It also reduces plant biodiversity, which can have cascading effects on the local ecosystem.

Canada Thistle (Cirsium arvense)

Its spiky leaves and purple or white flowers may look harmless, but Canda Thistle’s deep roots spread rapidly, often taking over large plots of land.

It’s believed that Canada Thistle was introduced to North America unintentionally as a contaminant in crop seeds. Once established, its seeds were easily spread by wind, water, and human activities.

Beyond its physical harm—spiky leaves can cause injuries to animals and humans—its aggressive growth patterns and deep roots make Canada Thistle hard to control. It competes for resources, often displacing native species. Over time, it can reduce plant diversity and negatively impact the animals relying on native plants.

Myrtle Spurge (Euphorbia myrsinites)

Myrtle Spurge is a succulent-like plant with yellow-green flowers and sap that can irritate the skin.

Due to its unique appearance, Myrtle Spurge was introduced to the U.S. as an ornamental plant. However, garden escapees and improper disposal of garden waste may have led to its spread in the wild.

Besides its skin-irritating sap, Myrtle Spurge displaces native vegetation and can lead to soil erosion. Animals grazing on it can get poisoned, making it a hazard for local wildlife and livestock.

Purple Loosestrife (Lythrum salicaria)

Purple Loosestrife looks pretty, but its pinkish-lavender blooms are a danger to the habitat for wetland animals and insects.

As mentioned above, Purple Loosestrife originated in Europe and Asia and made its way to the U.S. in the 19th century, both intentionally as an ornamental plant and accidentally in the ballast of ships.

Purple Loosestrife can create dense thickets, displacing native wetland plants. As these native plants are removed, it disrupts habitats for various animals, especially for species relying on wetland ecosystems and alerting the hydrology of wetlands.

For all these plants, their spread in the Colorado ecosystem and beyond highlights the unintended consequences of introducing non-native species into new environments. Proper identification, rapid response, and appropriate management techniques are essential in controlling their spread and mitigating their impact.

Removing Noxious Weeds on Your Property

As a homeowner, spotting a noxious weed on your property isn’t just an ecological concern; it’s also a legal one. The Colorado Noxious Weed Management Act was enacted in July 1990. The law states that certain noxious weeds threaten the continued economic and environmental value of the land in Colorado and must be managed by all landowners in the state.

Recognizing and removing noxious weeds is a serious responsibility for Colorado homeowners.

Methods for Noxious Weed Removal in Colorado

If you’ve identified one of these invading species on your property, waste no time in removing them. You can hire a professional to perform noxious weed control services or remove them yourself.

Mechanical Weed Removal

Mechanical techniques for weed removal include mowing, tilling, hand-pulling, or burning to physically disrupt plant growth and physically remove the invasive species. However, some weeds, like the Canada Thistle, have deep roots, and more than hand-pulling is needed for complete removal.

Chemical Weed Removal

Herbicides are effective for weeds but need to be used with caution. Understand the difference between pre-emergent herbicides, which prevent weeds from growing, and post-emergent herbicides, which kill actively growing weeds. Some herbicides are selective and will wipe out invasive weeds while not harming your lawn, while others will kill any plant they touch, including your ornamental and desired native plants. Always adhere to use guidelines, considering the environmental implications and potential harm to native species.

It may be best to consult a professional for weed removal services if you’re unsure how to use a chemical herbicide.

Biological Weed Control

Biological weed control utilizes insects to exert pressure on a weed to reduce it to acceptable levels. This is most useful for reducing seed production or weakening plants where other control methods are not cost-effective. Releasing these bio-agents can be a natural way to control the spread. However, consult with local agricultural experts before introducing any new species.

Land managers also use cattle, sheep, and goats to selectively overgraze and weaken certain weed species. It’s important to note that livestock and wildlife can carry and spread weed seed on their coats or feces; avoid moving livestock from weedy areas to weed-free areas when weeds produce viable seed.

Preventing Noxious Weed Reinfestation

Remember, prevention is always better than cure. Post removal, prevent reinfestation of noxious weeds by:

Proper Disposal: Don’t just toss the removed weeds. They might find their way back. Burn them or use approved disposal methods.
Regular Monitoring: Schedule periodic checks, especially during the growing season. Early detection can save you a lot of effort later.
Encourage Native Plants: Grow native species. They not only resist noxious weeds but also promote local biodiversity. For instance, the Colorado blue columbine, our state flower, adds beauty and strengthens the local ecosystem.

Being a responsible Coloradoan isn’t just about enjoying our state’s natural beauty but preserving it. Addressing the issue of noxious weeds is both an environmental necessity and a civic duty. Should the task seem daunting, remember that professional lawn services are just a call away, ready to help ensure that your state, home, lawn, and gardens are healthy and beautiful.

The Complete Guide to Lawn Mowing + Lawn Mowing Tips for Colorado Springs Homeowners

Mon, 06 Jul 2026 09:07:37 GMT

Mowing your Colorado Springs lawn is more than a weekend chore; it’s essential to keeping your green space healthy and attractive. You may think the only purpose of mowing is to keep your grass from getting unruly. However, your mowing practice can actually help increase your lawn’s density and encourage deep root growth, two factors that can lead to grass that’s stronger and better able to resist weeds and environmental stress.

Because of Colorado Springs’ unique semi-arid climate and high elevations, lawn care can bring its fair share of challenges. Discover how proper mowing techniques and schedules can help your grass grow healthier and happier, whether the sun is shining or the snow is falling.

Understanding Lawn Mowing Basics

Before you fire up your mower and get to it, understanding lawn mowing basics ensures your grass will get healthier and hardier from mowing, and not the other way around. The basics of lawn mowing include:

Mowing height
Frequency
Timing
Patterns

Mowing Height

The optimal mowing height is determined by your grass type. Finely textured, horizontal leaf blades, like those found in fine fescues, can be cut shorter than coarser, upright-growing leaf blades, such as those found in tall fescue.

Even if you love the look of a tight, short lawn, it may not be the best thing for your grass to cut off too much at once or to cut too short. Removing too much grass length at once can be stressful for your lawn, resulting in long-term damage and grass that’s more susceptible to insects, disease, and drought. Higher mowing heights are also associated with deeper root formation.

A good general rule for grass height is to remove no more than 1/3 of the total length of grass at one time. The preferred height for any Colorado Springs lawn is 2.5 to 3 inches; don’t mow your grass below 2 inches. You can mow your grass at the same height all year long.

Mowing Frequency: How often should you mow your lawn?

Optimal mowing frequency is determined by your grass type’s growth rate, time of year, and weather conditions. However, most lawns will fall into a range of 10 to 14 days.

A bluegrass or fescue lawn may need mowing every three to four days during the spring during its active growth period but only once every seven to 10 days when drought, heat, or cold conditions slow its growth.

Depending on how much they are watered, a buffalograss lawn may only need to be mowed every 10-20 days.

Mow your lawn often enough that you never remove more than 1/3 of the height of the grass at one time. For example, if you want to keep your lawn height above 2 inches, the grass should be mowed once it hits a 3-inch height.

Mowing Timing: When is the best time to mow your lawn?

The best time for mowing in Colorado Springs can change based on the season and weather conditions.

It’s better to cut grass dry than wet; wet grass clippings can clog your mower and increase the risk of rut damage to your lawn. So you may mow mid-morning during the warm summer months after the morning dew has dried off in the sun. In the springtime, your grass may be drier in the afternoon.

While drier is better when mowing, it may be best to avoid cutting the lawn in the middle of the day during the summer months. The hot arid conditions and high elevation of Colorado Springs can bathe your lawn with heat and stress your freshly shorn grass.

Lawn Mowing Patterns: What is the best mowing pattern?

Sending those delightful criss-cross patterns across your lawn looks as good as it feels. Not only does a mowing pattern make your turf look as good as the Rockie’s Coors Field, but it also benefits the health of your grass.

Grass grows where your mower goes; the blades tend to grow in the direction they are mowed. Alternating mowing patterns can help the blades stand upright and prevent ruts from mower wheels.

Whether you utilize a spiral pattern, starting from the outside and working your way toward the middle, stripes, or circles, be sure to mix it up to keep your lawn healthy and happy.

Best Practices for Mowing

Clear your lawn of sticks, stones, and debris before mowing to avoid injuries from flying objects and mower damage.
Mow when the turf is dry: wet clippings can clog a mower.
Sharpen your mower blades frequently to prevent tearing and damage.
Mow in a different direction or pattern to prevent wear patterns and reduce lawn ruts.
Leave clippings on the ground. Rake them out if they clump.
Adjust your cutting height on a driveway or sidewalk.
Never remove more than 1/3 of the grass blade at one time.

These basics set the stage. But what about the unique challenges in Colorado Springs?

Best Practices for Lawn Mowing in Colorado Springs

Ready to take your Colorado Springs lawn to the next level? General mowing practices are fine, but combining them with experience of our climate and grass types will really help your grass thrive.

 Cool-Season Grasses

Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescues love chilly springs and falls. Set an optimal mower height of 2.5-3.5 inches to help them flourish.

Warm-Season Grasses

Buffalograss and other sun-lovers thrive in our hot, dry summer. Cut your warm-season grasses a tad shorter, around 2 to 3 inches. (But never shorter than 2 inches.)

Monitor Height

Let conditions determine the mowing frequency in Colorado Springs, not the calendar. In a dry week, your lawn’s growth might slow down and require less mowing. Always keep an eye on the grass length to determine how often to mow.

Leave Clippings

Grass clippings break down quickly. Leaving clippings on your grass can encourage earthworms and microorganisms that maintain healthy grass soil. Clippings contain nitrogen—the fertilizer most used by turf—and other beneficial nutrients. Clippings recycle nutrients when returned to the lawn and promote steady grass growth.

Avoiding Common Lawn Mowing Mistakes

Mistakes happen, but knowing them can prevent lawn damage: Avoid these common lawn mowing mistakes to keep your grass healthy, happy, and green.

Cutting Too Short: Often called “scalping”, cutting grass too short can expose it to diseases. Don’t cut your Colorado Springs lawn below 2 inches.
Mowing Wet Grass: mowing when wet can damage your mower and your lawn. Protect your grass and equipment by waiting until the dryest part of the day (or driest day of the week) before cutting.
Using Dull Blades: Imagine cutting paper with dull scissors. You won’t get a clean cut, and you could shred the paper. Grass is no different. Regularly sharpen or replace your mower blades.
Mowing in the Same Direction, Every Time: Just like walking the same path can wear out the carpet, mowing in one direction stresses grass. Variety is key, so get creative with your patterns and mix it up!

General Lawn Care Tips & Best Practices

Mowing is only part of your lawn care practice. If you want your Colorado Springs grass to look its best, make sure you’re also following these general best practices for Colorado lawn care .

Watering

Proper watering can promote a deeply rooted, healthier turf. When you water the lawn, apply enough water to moisten as much of the root zone as possible. Sandy soils require more frequent watering with smaller amounts of water, while grass growing on loamy-clay soil can be irrigated less frequently with larger quantities of water.

Let grass species, soil conditions, and weather conditions dictate irrigation practices, not the calendar.

Aeration

Seasonal aeration is essential for lawn health, especially those that are thatchy or subject to high traffic. Aerating, also known as core cultivating, improves the root zone.

Fertilization

Nitrogen is the most critical nutrient for promoting good lawn color and growth. However, do not oversaturate your lawn with excess nitrogen, especially during the spring and summer. Leaving clippings on your grass after mowing can help provide needed nitrogen.

Tending to a lawn in Colorado Springs is both an art and a science. Colorado lawns demand attention and understanding due to its semi-arid conditions and high elevations. But with the right practices, your lawn can reward you with lush beauty.

Invest time in understanding your lawn’s needs and changing conditions. The payoff? A vibrant, healthy, and stunning outdoor space that brings joy all year round. And if you ever feel overwhelmed, the local lawn care experts at J. Rick Lawn and Tree are always ready to help make sure the grass IS greener on your side of the fence.

While we do not offer lawn mowing services, we do offer a wide array of lawn and tree care services that help promote greener, weed-free lawns and lush beautiful trees.

The Complete Guide to Fall Lawn Care: Best Practices for Preparing Your Lawn for Winter

Mon, 06 Jul 2026 09:02:24 GMT

Is this your first fall as a Colorado Springs homeowner? Whether you’re ready to winterize your lawn for the first time or simply need a fall lawn care refresher for the home you’ve lived in for years, these essential lawn care basics will help you transition your lawn from the summer season to winter.

Fall Lawn Care Tips for Colorado Springs Homeowners

For Colorado Springs homeowners, fall is a crucial time to help your lawn recover from the high summer heat and prepare it for a cold, snowy winter ahead. By practicing these fall lawn care tips, you can ensure your lawn comes in green and lush next spring.

Rake and Remove Leaves

Should you let fallen leaves be or rake them up? Fall leaves make great compost material, but don’t let them compost away directly on your lawn. Leaves can smother your grass if left unattended, which can lead to dead patches and disease.

Rake your leaves off your lawn and deposit them into a compost bin or pile. You can mix nitrogen into the bin as you add the leaves; they’re high in carbon but low in nitrogen. To get the right mix of carbon and nitrogen, you can add one part dry leaves to two parts fresh grass clippings. Add some moisture to your compost leaves, and you should have fall-leaf compost ready for your garden by late spring.

Continue Mowing

Continue mowing your Colorado Springs lawn as the weather progresses from summer to fall. Grass height and mowing frequency are as important in the fall as in the summer.

Ideal mowing height:

Bluegrass, ryegrass, fescue, and wheatgrass should be a height of 2 to 3 inches.
Buffalo grass can be mowed to 2 to 3 inches but also do well unmowed.

How often should you mow your lawn in the fall? Mow your lawn often enough so that you’re never taking off more than 1/3 of the grass height during any single mowing. If you’re trying to maintain a grass height of 2 inches, you’ll want to mow when your grass is three inches tall.

You can let grass clippings compost directly on the lawn, or you can mix them with your fall leaves in your compost pile.

Reduce Watering Frequency

Your lawn may grow a little slower in the fall, but that doesn’t mean you should stop watering it completely. Your Colorado Springs lawn is still growing; turfgrasses form side shoots and rhizomes in the fall, which make your turf more dense and help it recover from summer stress. Watering in the fall can also help discourage winter mites and optimize your fall fertilization for better results.

On average, October is the wettest month in Colorado Springs, so you’ll have some rainfall to help water your lawn. If you see signs of dehydration, such as footprints remaining on the lawn after an hour, give your turf the water it needs. Water one to two times a week, only when air and soil temperatures exceed 40 degrees F with no snow cover. Water no later than mid-day so the water can soak into the soil before possible freezing temperatures at night.

Fall Aeration

Aeration can loosen compacted soil, improve air circulation, and enhance water absorption. The best time to aerate your Colorado Springs lawn is in the fall or spring, when the practice of pulling cores (plugs of soil) out of the lawn can help move more air, water, and nutrients into the root zone.

Aeration can be done once annually for a lawn that gets moderate use; however, lawns that see heavy traffic or look thin, patchy, and bare could benefit from a fall aeration and spring aeration.

Schedule your Colorado Springs seasonal lawn aeration services with JRick Lawn and Tree.

Fall Lawn Fertilization

Fertilizing in the fall helps strengthen grass to withstand the upcoming winter season, helping it grow thicker and healthier in the spring. For Colorado Springs homeowners, the best time of year to fertilize your cool-season turf types, like Kentucky bluegrass, is between September and November.

Fall fertilization will provide your turf with a healthier root system. It will encourage dense, green spring lawns without excessive top growth.

Fertilize with nitrogen while your grass is still green. Moist soil helps nitrogen dissolve, so apply fertilizer within a day of watering. Avoid adding fertilizer to grass that is dry, dormant (brown), or cold.

Weed Control

Keep weeds under control so they don’t compete with your grass. Fall season brings some weed control considerations, especially if you’re using post-emergent herbicides for broadleaf weed control. The ideal temperature for applying most post-emergent herbicides is between 65° F and 85° F. You’ll also want to avoid applying post-emergent herbicides within 24 hours of watering or expected rain, which can be difficult during Colorado’s rainiest month (October).

Hand-pulling or mowing may be the best methods for weed control in the fall if the weather is too cool or wet for proper herbicide use.

Seeding and Repair

Lastly, fall is a perfect time for overseeding and repairing dead patches of lawn before winter weather and snow sets in. Overseeding can be done at the same time as aerating to help fill in dead spots and add more color and diversity to your lawn in the spring.

Colorado Springs Lawn Winterization Tips

Winter lawn care starts in the fall as you prepare your turf for the cold, snowy season ahead.

The unique climate of Colorado Springs can bring dry air, little soil moisture, low precipitation, and fluctuating temperatures to the region, and supplemental watering may be needed if there is no snow fall to provide moisture.

Colorado Springs Lawn Winterization Tips

Watering guidelines change with the seasons. To prevent freezing winter damage, your irrigation system should be winterized (blown out ). Use a hose to water once per month if there is low snowfall or days above 50°F when there is no snow cover or wind. Water no later than mid-day so it can soak in before temperatures drop below freezing at night.

Snow Considerations

Piles of snow can damage your lawn, stressing the grass and increasing the risk of fungal infections. If you notice uneven piles of snow on your lawn, breaking it up and spreading it out evenly can help encourage snowmelt. Avoid using rock salt on your lawn, which can damage your turf.

Get Expert Fall and Winter Lawn Care From JRick Lawn and Tree

The right fall lawn care and winter lawn care can help ensure your grass grows back green, lush, and dense in the spring. Fall is the ideal time to repair, aerate, seed, fertilize, and take any additional steps needed to strengthen your grass before the winter season. The lawn care professionals at JRick Lawn and Tree help Colorado Springs homeowners with the tasks of fall lawn care, so you can get the expert care you need and be certain your lawn will be vibrant and healthy when winter comes to an end.

Understanding How Pre-Emergent & Post-Emergent Weed Control Products Work

Mon, 06 Jul 2026 08:52:13 GMT

Weeds can be the bane of any homeowner’s lawn, especially in central Colorado. If you’re battling these pesky intruders, understanding the differences between the various weed control products available can be daunting . That’s why we’re going to explain the two main types of weed management products, pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides. As you read on, you’ll learn practical tips and strategies to manage and prevent weeds effectively, ensuring a lush, healthy lawn year-round.

The Importance of Weed Control

Weeds compete with your grass for nutrients, water, and sunlight, making them a significant threat to the health and appearance of your lawn. Effective weed control is essential not only for aesthetic reasons but also for maintaining the overall health of your lawn. By using the right herbicide at the right time, you can minimize weed growth and keep your lawn looking its best.

What are Pre-Emergent Herbicides?

Pre-emergent herbicides are your first line of defense against weeds. These herbicides work by creating a chemical barrier in the soil that prevents weed seeds from germinating and emerging. Here’s how they work and when to use them:

How They Work: Pre-emergent herbicides target weed seeds as they start to germinate. They inhibit cell division, stopping the growth process before the weed can establish itself.
Purpose: The main purpose of pre-emergent herbicides is to prevent weed seeds from becoming mature plants. They are most effective against annual weeds, such as crabgrass and foxtail.
When to Apply: Timing is crucial. For warm-season weeds, apply pre-emergent herbicides in early spring before soil temperatures reach 55°F. For cool-season weeds, a fall application is recommended, typically in early September.

What are Post-Emergent Herbicides?

Post-emergent herbicides tackle weeds that have already emerged and are visible in your lawn. These herbicides are applied directly to the leaves of the weeds, where they are absorbed and transported throughout the plant, killing it.

How They Work : Post-emergent herbicides disrupt the growth processes of established weeds, targeting their leaves, stems, and roots.
Purpose : These herbicides are used to control actively growing weeds that have already appeared above the soil. They are effective against a wide range of weed species, including dandelions, clover, and broadleaf weeds.
When to Apply : Apply post-emergent herbicides when weeds are actively growing, typically during the spring and summer months. It’s important to choose a calm day with no rain in the forecast to prevent the herbicide from washing away or drifting to desirable plants.

Application Tips for Pre-Emergent and Post-Emergent Herbicides

Applying herbicides correctly is key to their effectiveness and safety. Here are some tips to help you get the best results:

Pre-Emergent Application Tips:
Timing: As mentioned, apply in early spring or fall depending on the type of weeds you’re targeting.
Watering: Lightly water your lawn after application to activate the herbicide. Be careful not to overwater, as this can wash the herbicide away.
Coverage: Ensure even coverage by using a spreader. Missing spots can allow weeds to grow.
Post-Emergent Application Tips:
Targeting: Apply directly to the leaves of the weeds. Be precise to avoid damaging surrounding grass and plants.
Conditions: Apply during calm, dry weather. Avoid application if rain is expected within 24 hours.
Safety: Wear protective gear, such as gloves and long sleeves, to avoid skin contact. Keep children and pets off the treated area until it is completely dry.

Environmental Considerations and Safety Precautions

When using herbicides, it’s essential to consider the environment and safety:

Environmental Impact: Choose herbicides that are safe for the environment. Avoid products with harmful chemicals that can leach into groundwater or harm beneficial insects.
Safety: Always read and follow the label instructions. Store herbicides in a safe place, out of reach of children and pets.

The Benefit of Professional Application Services

While DIY herbicide application is possible, professional lawn care services offer several advantages:

Expertise : Professionals have the knowledge and experience to identify the specific weeds in your lawn and choose the most effective treatment.
Precision : They ensure accurate application, reducing the risk of damage to your lawn and surrounding plants.
Convenience : Save time and effort by letting the experts handle the job.

Understanding the differences between pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides and how to use them effectively can significantly improve your weed control efforts. For the best results and to ensure the health of your lawn, consider professional herbicide application. Contact J. Rick Lawn and Tree for expert advice and services to keep your lawn weed-free and thriving.

How to Create a Low-Maintenance Lawn in Colorado

Mon, 06 Jul 2026 08:45:44 GMT

Practical Tips for Colorado Springs Homeowners Who Want Beauty Without the Fuss

Let’s be honest—we all want that neighbor-stopping curb appeal without devoting our weekends to mowing, watering, weeding, and fussing. Especially here in Colorado, where the sun can scorch, water’s a precious resource, and the soil can be as stubborn as a toddler in a toy aisle.

The good news? Low maintenance landscaping isn’t just a pipe dream—it’s totally doable with the right mix of smart planning, hardy plant choices, and a few time-saving techniques. Whether you live in Broadmoor Bluffs, Black Forest, or Briargate, here’s how we (and you!) can create a beautiful, low-effort landscape that looks like a million bucks—but doesn’t cost you your sanity.

1. Start With the Right Grass, Ground Cover… or Skip It Entirely

If you want to lower your lawn care workload, it starts at ground level—literally . Many grasses just aren’t built to handle Colorado’s dry spells, intense sun, and wild temperature swings. That’s why the type of turf you choose makes a huge difference.

Best Low Maintenance Grasses for Colorado

Buffalo Grass – A drought-tolerant native that thrives on neglect (yes, really). It grows slowly, needs minimal water, and rarely needs mowing.
Fine Fescue Mixes – These grasses tolerate shade, need less fertilizer, and grow well even in poor soils.
Bermuda Grass (for sunnier areas) – Heat- and drought-tolerant, though it will go dormant and brown in cooler months.

Not sure which grass is best for your lawn? We actually wrote a whole blog post about Choosing the Right Grass for Your Lawn so we highly recommend you check that out if you’re on the fence or not sure.

Grass Alternatives Native to Colorado

If you’re just not a fan of grass and aren’t quite ready for the rockgarden look there are a plethora of flora that are great for our wild Colorado climate.

CSU’s groundcover plants list provides great native groundcover plant ideas plus great picks for shrubs and flowers. Below are a few examples of short varieties that only grow to be 2-4 inches tall – make mowing and trimming a lot easier!

Icee Blue – Compact silver-blue foliage that turns purplish in the winter.
Pussytoes (Antennaria dioica) – With white & pink flowers that bloom in late Spring to early Summer, the main foliage has a persistent gray-green coloring that grows in dense mats that are excellent for slopes to prevent erosion.
Creeping thyme (Thymus praecox) – Typically accented with pink flowers that bloom in Spring through early summer, the foliage is evergreen and quite fragrant.
Woolly thyme (Thymus praecox / Pseudolanuginosus) – Similar to its creeping cousin, the foliage has a slightly fluffier, duller green appearance with pink flowers blooming in Spring through early Summer.
Turkish Veronica (Veronica liwanensis) – This tough, mat-forming variety has bright purple 4-peatle flowers that blooms in late Spring to early Summer with dark, evergreen foliage.

✨ Shameless Plug: Our Lawn Care Program takes the guesswork out of lawn health—whether you stick with turf or go turf-free.

2. Choose Plants That Thrive on Tough Love

Colorado isn’t exactly known for gentle weather. Your landscape should reflect that reality with plants that don’t need constant pampering.

Perennial Power Players Native to Colorado:

Fringed Sage (Artemisia frigida) – This silver-gray shrub with fringed foliage loves full sun, grows to be 6-15 inches tall, and has little yellow flowers that bloom in late Summer.
Serbian Yarrow (Achillea serbica) – This variety of Yarrow grows to be 4-8 inches tall, has white flowers similar to Common Yarrow but is a bit hardier in drier climates.
Indian Grass (Sorghastrum nutans) – This native prairie grass is taller than many as it grows to be 3-5 feet high. The foliage varies in color; it’s generally yellow then turns orange in fall. While this native ornamental grass prefers moisture, it will withstand drier soils.
Rocky Mountain juniper (Juniperus scopulorum) – This highly prevalent and varied, native evergreen tree has blue-green lush foliage and blue berry-like cones.

These are just a few, for even more trees & shrubs or ornamental grasses check out CSU’s list of Xeriscaping Plants that are great for our climate.

�� Pro Tip: Group your plants by water needs (called hydrozoning ) so you’re not wasting water on drought-toughies that would be just fine on their own.

3. Smart Design = Less Work

A good design doesn’t just look pretty—it works smarter, not harder. Here’s how to design with simplicity in mind:

Go for curves over corners. Rounded edges are easier to mow around and feel more organic.
Limit lawn space. Use decorative rock, mulch, or groundcover to reduce grass areas that need mowing and fertilizing.
Install weed barriers under rock or mulch beds. A little prep goes a long way in keeping weeds at bay.
Add automatic drip irrigation. It’s precise, efficient, and saves hours of dragging hoses around.

Want to spend less time maintaining your front yard? Keep your design simple, symmetrical, and plant-dense. The less empty space, the less room for weeds to move in and crash the party.

�� Pro Tip: Soil conditions matter too. Before you start any major project, it’s wise to check your soil to assure you don’t doom yourself from the start. Learn how to test your lawn’s soil with our Soil Testing 101 guide.

4. Water Wisely (and Less Often)

In our high-desert climate, overwatering is both wasteful and a recipe for unhealthy plants . Focus on watering deeply and infrequently—encouraging deeper root growth and more resilient landscapes.

Water-Saving Tips:

Water early morning or late evening to minimize evaporation.
Use mulch (wood, rock, or bark) around all plants to retain soil moisture and prevent weed growth.
Upgrade to smart irrigation systems that adjust based on weather or soil moisture levels.

�� Not sure if you’re watering the right way? It’s not an uncommon question for us, so we created a guide about How to Properly Water Your Lawn in Colorado.

5. When in Doubt, Call in the Pros

Look, we’re all for a good DIY project—but when it comes to designing a landscape that will thrive year-round with minimal input, it helps to have some backup.

That’s where we come in.

At J. Rick Lawn and Tree , we’ve spent decades helping homeowners across neighborhoods like The Farm, Flying Horse, and Monument create yards that match their lifestyle—whether that means full-scale lawn care or just keeping weeds in check while you sip your morning coffee.

Ready to Create the Yard of Your Dreams?

Low maintenance landscaping doesn’t mean boring. With the right mix of native plants, smart watering, and stress-free design, your lawn and garden can look amazing all year long—without becoming a full-time job.

Explore our Lawn Care Programs | Check out our Bed Weed Control Services | Read more Lawn Care Tips on Our Blog

Or give us a call and let’s chat about how we can help bring your low-maintenance vision to life. Because your yard should bring you joy—not a to-do list.

Soil Testing 101: Why It Matters for a Healthy Lawn

Mon, 06 Jul 2026 08:35:37 GMT

Regardless of how long you’ve been in Colorado you’ve most likely learned one thing; Colorado’s finicky weather and stubborn clay soil can make it frustrating to get a lush green lawn. And while we spend a lot of time talking about what’s happening above the ground—like mowing, watering, and fertilizing—the real magic (or mischief) happens beneath the surface.

That’s where soil testing comes in. Colorado’s soil is… let’s just say “unique.” Between our naturally high pH levels, clay-heavy composition, and low organic matter, it’s easy for even well-tended lawns to struggle. Add in regionally inconsistent precipitation and newer home developments with disturbed soil, your lawn may be trying to grow in less-than-ideal conditions.

In many cases, these challenges are made worse by soil compaction, which is common in clay-heavy Colorado soils. When soil becomes compacted, it restricts airflow, water movement, and root growth—making it much harder for grass to thrive even when everything else is done correctly.

Soil compaction testing is important because it removes the guesswork. Instead of blindly applying fertilizers or adjusting your watering schedule, a soil test can give you real, science-backed insights into what your lawn actually needs.

Armed with this info, you can create a personalized lawn care plan tailored to your yard’s exact conditions—saving money, water, and frustration in the process.

�� So… What Is a Soil Test, Really?

A soil test is like a wellness check-up for your lawn. It tells you what’s going on underground — which, as it turns out, is where all the real action happens. Grass health, root development, water absorption, and nutrient availability all depend on what’s going on in your soil. If your soil is out of balance, your lawn won’t thrive—no matter how much you mow or water.

At its simplest, a soil test evaluates:

Soil pH – Is your soil acidic, neutral, or alkaline? This affects how well your grass can absorb nutrients. In Colorado, soils tend to be alkaline (otherwise known as ‘basic’), which can lock up nutrients and stunt growth.
Macronutrients – These are the “big three” your lawn needs: nitrogen (N) for green growth, phosphorus (P) for roots, and potassium (K) for resilience and disease resistance.
Micronutrients – Think of these as the vitamins of soil health—things like iron, zinc, and manganese. A deficiency in even one can throw things off.
Organic matter and soil texture – How much good, nutrient-rich organic material is in your soil? Is it sandy and fast-draining, or clay-heavy and prone to compaction?

There are two ways to go about soil testing:

At-home soil testing kits – These are quick and inexpensive. They usually include test strips or color-coded vials that give you a general snapshot of pH and N-P-K levels.
Professional lab testing (like through CSU) – This is a more thorough option and provides detailed, actionable data. It’s especially helpful if you’ve been struggling with your lawn or planning a big refresh.

If you’ve ever had a lawn that looks a little “meh” despite your best efforts—or if your neighbor’s grass is weirdly greener even though they water less—chances are the answer lies in the soil.

��️ How Often Should You Test Your Soil in Colorado?

For most home lawns, once every 2 to 3 years is enough— unless you’re actively making changes like adjusting your pH or restoring a problem area. In that case, it’s a good idea to test annually until things stabilize.

You should also consider testing:

Before starting a new lawn or major landscaping project
If your lawn shows signs of stress (yellowing, patchy growth, excessive weeds or moss)
After amending the soil (to check if your efforts worked)

If you’re just getting started with soil testing, early spring or fall is the perfect time to collect samples—before you apply fertilizers or treatments for the season.

�� Which Should You Choose? At-Home Soil Test Kits vs. Lab-Based Soil Testing

�� So Which One Should You Use?

Use an at-home test if you’re just getting started, want a general snapshot, or are curious about your soil’s pH.
Use CSU’s lab test if:
You’ve been struggling with your lawn and can’t figure out why.
You’ve recently moved to a new home and want a full soil profile.
You’re investing in major landscaping or re-seeding efforts.
You want reliable, local, science-based advice tailored to Colorado’s unique soils.

�� Bonus Tip: You can even start with an at-home test, then send a sample to CSU for deeper insights if things still feel off. Think of the at-home version as your quick preview—and CSU as the full diagnostic.

�� How to Test Your Lawn Soil at Home Using a Retail Soil Testing Kit

Most big box stores sell basic soil testing kits that measure pH and major nutrients (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium—also known as N-P-K). While these tests aren’t as precise as a lab analysis, they can give you a useful snapshot of what’s happening below the surface.

Here’s how to get the most out of your at-home kit:

Step 1: Read the Instructions

Every test kit is a little different—some use capsules and color charts, while others use test strips or vials. Take a moment to read through the instructions before you start, and double-check that you have everything included in the box.

If your kit didn’t come with clear instructions, don’t worry—we’ve got you covered below.

Step 2: Collect Your Soil Samples

Follow the same method you would for a lab test to get a good representative sample:

Use a clean trowel or garden spade to dig 4–6 inches deep in 4 to 6 different spots across your lawn.
Avoid spots with heavy foot traffic, compost piles, or fertilizer spills.
Combine all the samples into a clean plastic container or bucket and mix thoroughly.
From that mixed sample, take a small amount (based on your kit’s requirements) for testing.

�� Pro Tip: Avoid using metal containers or tools, which can interfere with certain nutrient readings—especially iron.

Step 3: Prepare the Soil for Testing

Depending on your test type:

You may need to let the soil air-dry for a few hours before testing (especially if it’s muddy).
Remove any rocks, mulch, or grass clippings .
Some kits will ask you to mix soil with distilled water —not tap water, since tap water can skew pH results.

Step 4: Perform the Test(s)

Most kits include individual compartments or vials for each test (pH, Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium):

Fill the test chamber with the correct amount of soil (usually to a line on the container).
Add the test capsule or strip.
Add distilled water as directed.
Shake or stir gently and let it sit for the recommended time (usually 5–10 minutes).
Compare the resulting color with the included chart.

�� Match the color carefully under natural light, ie: mid-day sun, for the most accurate reading.

�� How to Test Your Soil Using CSU’s Soil Testing Lab

Understanding your soil fully Soil testing is one of the easiest and most valuable things you can do to improve your lawn’s health—especially in Colorado, where soil types vary widely. Here’s how to test your lawn soil properly using CSU’s trusted Soil Testing Lab.

Step 1: Gather Your Tools

You’ll need:

A clean trowel or soil probe
A plastic bucket (not metal—it can contaminate the results)
A CSU soil test submittal form
A resealable plastic bag or CSU soil sample box

Step 2: Collect Your Soil Samples

You’ll want to get a good representation of your entire lawn. Here’s how:

Choose 5–10 random spots across your lawn.
From each spot, dig down 4–6 inches (removing sod and debris first).
Place all the samples into your bucket and mix them thoroughly .
Let the mixed soil air-dry overnight on a clean surface (like newspaper or cardboard).

�� Pro Tip: Avoid sampling immediately after fertilizing, watering, or during extremely dry conditions.

Step 3: Package and Label Your Sample

Once the soil is dry:

Place about 2 cups of the mixed soil into a plastic bag or sample box.
Fill out the CSU Soil Test Submittal Form clearly. For lawns, the “Home Lawn & Garden” form is recommended.
Indicate that the sample is from a lawn , and include any concerns (e.g., poor growth, yellowing, etc.).

Step 4: Send It to the CSU Soil Testing Lab

Mail or deliver your sample to:

CSU Soil, Water, and Plant Testing Lab
1231 Libbie Coy Way
Fort Collins, CO 80523-1120

Standard soil tests typically cost $35 (check the current price list ).
Results are usually emailed to you within 7–10 business days .

�� Now What? Making Adjustments Based on Your Results

Understanding your results, regardless of the testing method, you’ll be able to use this information to decide what type of action you need to take to help your lawn.

For example if your results showed:

Low pH (acidic)? Add lime.
High pH (alkaline/basic)? Sulfur or compost can help bring balance.
Lacking nitrogen? Time to fertilize (but don’t overdo it!).
Compacted or clay-heavy soil? Aeration + compost = your best friends.
Low in micronutrients? Add in what’s lacking (like an iron supplement)

�� When to Upgrade to a Lab Test

Keep in mind at-home retail tests are approximate , not precise. But they’re a solid starting point—especially if your lawn just doesn’t “feel right.”

If your results seem off, are hard to read, or you want detailed info (like organic matter, micronutrients, or texture), consider sending a sample to the CSU Soil Testing Lab . Their reports are science-backed, region-specific, and ideal for long-term lawn care planning.

For results from the CSU lab, use the interpretation guide to understand your results.

But, if this all feels a little overwhelming, don’t worry. We can help interpret your results and create a lawn care plan that works with your soil—not against it.

Bottom Line

Whether you’re dealing with crunchy brown patches or just want to give your lawn its best shot at thriving, soil testing can be a wonderful starting point. It takes the guesswork out of fertilizing and watering, and it’s surprisingly simple to do.

Because a healthy lawn doesn’t start with the grass—it starts with what’s beneath it. ��

Need help figuring out what your lawn really needs?

Bonus: Here Are a Few Home Soil pH Tests to Help You Get Started Today.

Do not we are not sponsored or affiliated with any of these brands and cannot guarantee accurate results. That said, we chose these on the amount purchased and positive reviews.

*prices were sampled at the time of publishing and may be different.

How to Budget for Commercial Lawn Care: A Guide for Property Managers

Mon, 06 Jul 2026 06:21:18 GMT

Let’s face it, curb appeal matters. The way your property looks, including your landscaping, influences how tenants, future tenants, and even passersby feel about your space. Brown patches, overgrown shrubs, weeds in entryways; all are small but can add up which can affect how professional, welcoming, and safe your property or community feels. This also affects commercial buildings, retail spaces, and medical offices as it also plays a part of the overall brand experience. Sketchy property… sketchy patrons.

But when it comes to planning for any type of landscaping budget, many property managers are left scratching their heads and asking themselves: How much should you set aside? What services actually matter? And how should the budget be split?

It’s not rocket science, but if you’re newer to the position it can be confusing. But just like personal budgets, a commercial landscaping budget can help prevent you from constantly reacting to problems as they appear.

What Should I Include in a Commercial Landscaping Budget?

While Colorado weather can feel unpredictable from one day to the next, the seasons themselves are actually fairly consistent. That makes it possible to build a landscape maintenance plan and budget that spreads services out evenly throughout the year instead of stacking everything into one expensive month. This way you’re staying proactive, instead of purely reactive.

Your plan should include:

Core Maintenance (60–70%)
Mowing, edging, fertilization, weed control, seasonal cleanup.
Tree & Shrub Care (10–20%)
Fertilization, pruning, insect and disease control.
Repairs & Irrigation (10–15%)
System checks, minor repairs, adjustments.
Contingency (5–10%)
Storm damage, emergency response, unexpected needs.

What’s included in Commercial Landscape Services?

Depending on your property or community, services may vary (obviously) but keep in mind that your maintenance plan has the following in it; even if they’re performed by different vendors

Weekly or bi-weekly mowing & trimming
Fertilization and weed control (typically every 4-6 weeks)
Tree and shrub care
Irrigation checks
Snow removal & mitigation
Seasonal aeration (spring and fall)

Think of it like a maintenance plan for your property. A little attention throughout the year keeps the landscape healthy and prevents larger, more expensive problems later.

And Don’t forget to Plan for the Unexpected

Wind, hail, heavy snow or rain, Colorado commercial properties can take the hit from all sorts of chaos this state brings. From broken tree limbs, damaged shrubs, erosion issues, or irrigation line breaks; all of these can quickly eat into a thin budget.

To help prevent a cashflow catastrophe, we recommend setting aside a 5-10% Contingency portion for the unexpected. And emergency fund if you will. If you don’t use it, great. If you need it, you’re prepared. That small buffer can save you from emergency approvals and stressed-out board meetings. Every property is different, but this gives you a practical framework to start from.

Ready to Plan Smarter?

If you’d like help building a realistic landscape maintenance plan or reviewing your current HOA lawn care cost, we’re here to help. We’ve created a simple Commercial Lawn Care Budget Planning Checklist you can use to organize your numbers and spot gaps before the season starts.

Noxious Weed Control in Colorado: How Weeds Spread on Ranch Land (and How to Stop Them)

Mon, 06 Jul 2026 06:11:05 GMT

If you manage acreage or ranch land in Colorado, you’ve probably seen how quickly weeds can take over.

One season, everything looks manageable. The next, you’re noticing patches spreading across fields, along fence lines, or creeping in from neighboring properties. It doesn’t take much for things to get out of hand.

And the frustrating part? It often feels like it happened overnight.

But noxious weeds don’t just show up. They spread—quietly, steadily, and often without being noticed until they’ve already taken hold.

How Weeds Spread Across Colorado Ranch Land

Out on larger properties, weeds have more space, and more ways to travel.

Wind is one of the biggest factors. Many invasive species in Colorado are designed to spread this way, releasing seeds that can travel long distances. That means weeds don’t have to start on your property to become your problem.

Water is another common path. Irrigation, runoff, and seasonal storms can carry seeds across pastures and low-lying areas, especially in properties with natural slopes or drainage paths.

Equipment is one of the most overlooked causes. Tractors, mowers, trailers, and even ATVs can carry seeds from one area to another. If equipment moves between properties—or even between different sections of your land—it can spread weeds without you realizing it.

Livestock and wildlife also play a role. Seeds can stick to coats, hooves, and feathers, moving naturally across large areas and settling into new ground as animals travel.

When you put all of that together, it’s easy to see how quickly weeds can spread across acreage.

Why Noxious Weed Control in Colorado Starts Early

Noxious weeds aren’t just a cosmetic issue on ranch land.

They compete with native grasses and forage, reduce usable grazing space, and can even impact soil health over time. Some species spread aggressively enough to take over entire sections if left unchecked.

And once they’re established, control becomes more time-intensive and more costly.

That’s why early-season prevention matters so much. It’s not just about getting rid of what you see—it’s about stopping the spread before it starts.

Create a Prevention Plan to Create a Property That Resists Weeds

The most effective approach is making your land harder for weeds to move into in the first place.

Healthy, established grass is one of your strongest defenses. When pastures are full and consistent, there’s less open space for weeds to take root. Reseeding thin or damaged areas early in the season helps strengthen that coverage and close the gaps.

Early spot treatments also make a big difference. Addressing weeds when they first appear—before they go to seed—keeps them from spreading across larger sections of your property.

High-risk areas deserve extra attention. Fence lines, road edges, gate entrances, and drainage paths are often where weeds show up first. Keeping these areas under control creates a kind of buffer that protects the rest of your land.

And just as important as treatment is prevention through equipment care. Cleaning off mowers, tractors, and trailers before moving between areas can stop seeds from being carried across your property.

Why Consistent Ranch Weed Control Matters Year After Year

On ranch properties, weed control isn’t something you do once and check off the list.

New seeds are always being introduced—through wind, water, and movement. The goal isn’t to eliminate that completely. It’s to stay ahead of it.

When you take a consistent, year-after-year approach, you start to see real results. Fewer outbreaks. Healthier pastures. And less time spent chasing problems later in the season.

Start Early, Stay Ahead: Start Your Colorado Ranch Weed Control Plan This Spring

Spring is when everything begins to shift.

Weeds are just starting to grow, which makes it the most effective time to step in. Early-season visits allow for targeted control, reseeding where needed, and a clear plan for the months ahead.

At J. Rick Lawn & Tree, our ranch services are built around that proactive approach. We focus on stopping spread, strengthening your land, and keeping things manageable long-term—not just treating what’s visible today.

If you’re planning for the season ahead, now’s the time to get started.

Noxious Weed Control FAQs for Colorado Ranch Properties

What’s Causing Bare Spots in My Lawn? 5 Common Problems and How to Fix Them

Mon, 06 Jul 2026 06:05:42 GMT

If you’ve recently moved to Colorado and are wondering why your once-green lawn is turning into a patchy mess… you’re not alone.

Our climate here is tough on grass. Between dry air, temperature swings, compacted soil, and hungry pests, it doesn’t take much for bare spots in your lawn to show up.

The good news? Most of these problems are fixable once you know what’s causing them.

1. Grubs in Grass: The Hidden Lawn Destroyers

If your grass feels loose or pulls up like a rug, you might be dealing with grubs.

Grubs are small, white larvae that live just below the surface and feed on grass roots. Once the roots are gone, your lawn can’t hold on… so it dies off in patches.

Signs to look for:

Brown, thinning patches that spread
Grass that lifts easily from the soil
Increased animal activity (raccoons and birds love grubs)

How to fix it:

For a DIY approach, you can apply a grub control treatment and water it in well. Timing matters and late spring through early fall is best.

How J. Rick can help:

We use targeted treatments that stop the lifecycle of grubs before they cause serious damage, helping protect your lawn long-term instead of just reacting to the problem.

2. Soil Compaction: When Your Lawn Can’t Breathe

Colorado soil is notorious for being dense and compacted. Over time, foot traffic, pets, and even mowing can press the soil down so tightly that water, air, and nutrients can’t get through. Think of it like trying to grow grass in concrete. It just won’t work.

Signs to look for:

Thin or patchy lawn areas
Water pooling instead of soaking in
Hard soil that’s difficult to dig into

How to fix patchy grass caused by compaction:
Aeration is the key. This process removes small plugs of soil to “open things up” and let your lawn breathe again.

How J. Rick can help:
Our core aeration services are timed specifically for Colorado conditions, giving your lawn the best chance to recover and fill in those bare spots.

With over 300 days of sunshine and higher elevation, your lawn gets hit with intense UV exposure. That can dry grass out fast and lead to bare spots in your lawn , especially during the peak of summer.

Signs to look for:

Dry, straw-like patches in full sun areas
Grass thinning in the hottest parts of your yard
Areas that struggle even with regular watering

How to fix patchy grass caused by heat:

Water deeply and early in the morning to reduce evaporation
Raise your mower height to help shade the soil
Avoid mowing during peak heat times
Consider drought-tolerant or Colorado-friendly grass blends

How J. Rick can help:
We tailor your lawn care plan to handle Colorado’s intense sun, including proper fertilization timing and recommendations that help your lawn stay strong through the hottest months.

3. Heat Stress & Sun Exposure: Too Much of a Good Thing

In most parts of the country, shade is the problem. In Colorado? It’s often the opposite.

With over 300 days of sunshine and higher elevation, your lawn gets hit with intense UV exposure. That can dry grass out fast and lead to bare spots in your lawn, especially during the peak of summer.

Signs to look for:

Dry, straw-like patches in full sun areas
Grass thinning in the hottest parts of your yard
Areas that struggle even with regular watering

How to fix patchy grass caused by heat:

Water deeply and early in the morning to reduce evaporation
Raise your mower height to help shade the soil
Avoid mowing during peak heat times
Consider drought-tolerant or Colorado-friendly grass blends

4. Watering Mistakes (Overwatering vs Underwatering)

In Colorado, watering can feel like a guessing game. The dry air makes it seem like your lawn always needs more but overwatering is actually one of the most common causes of bare spots in your lawn.

Too little water dries your grass out. Too much water keeps roots shallow and can lead to disease. Either way, you end up with a patchy lawn that struggles to fill in.

Signs of Underwatering

Grass turns a dull greyish-blue or yellow
Feels dry or brittle to the touch
Footprints linger longer than usual

Signs of Overwatering

Soil feels constantly soggy or spongy
Mushrooms or fungus start to appear
Grass looks yellow or thin despite being watered often
Uneven growth across your lawn

How to fix it:
Focus on deep, infrequent watering instead of a little bit every day. Most lawns do best with watering 2–3 times per week, depending on the season .

Water early in the morning so your lawn can soak it in before the sun evaporates it. And keep in mind your sprinkler type, soil, and time of year all play a role, so some adjustment is normal.

How J. Rick can help:
We help take the guesswork out of watering by building it into your overall lawn care plan. From seasonal recommendations to supporting healthy root growth, we make sure your lawn is getting what it needs; without overdoing it.

5. Nutrient Deficiency: Your Lawn Is Hungry

Colorado lawns commonly suffer from nutrient deficiency due to our soil composition. Grass needs nutrients to grow thick and fill in gaps but it is all too common to have clay-heavy and high pH soil makes most grass become weak, thin, and more prone to damage.

Signs to look for:

Pale or yellowing grass
Slow growth
Thin, uneven coverage

How to fix large bare spots in lawn areas:

Start with a quality soil test to identify what your soil is deficient in. Then, based on that information, fertilize with the appropriate nutrient(s) to feed your lawn. And remember, while Spring is important, it’s also wise to fertilize every several weeks.

Lawn Patch Repair: How to Fix Bare Spots Step-by-Step

Once you’ve addressed the root cause, it’s time to repair the damage.

Here’s a simple approach to lawn patch repair:

Rake out dead grass and loosen the soil
Add a thin layer of fresh soil or compost
Spread grass seed evenly
Lightly cover with soil and water regularly
Keep the area moist until new growth appears

Consistency is key here. It takes a little patience, but done right, those patches will fill back in.

Ready for a Healthier Lawn?

If you’re dealing with bare spots in your lawn and want a long-term solution, our lawn care program is built specifically for Colorado conditions.

Request a quote today and let’s get your lawn back to looking the way it should.

Why Commercial Lawn Care Services are Necessary (and What to Include)

Mon, 06 Jul 2026 06:01:08 GMT

It’s common for property managers to focus on the building itself. It’s the primary reason they for owning the property because it contains the residents and tenants that provide income. However, it’s important to keep the exterior of the building… and it’s property top of mind as its the very first thing noticed by guests, customers, and the leaseholders.

Overgrown grass, weeds creeping into sidewalks, dead patches in the lawn, or neglected trees can quietly shape how people feel about a property before they ever walk through the door. On the other hand, a clean, well-maintained landscape and exterior creates a sense of care, professionalism, and safety.

For property managers, commercial lawn care is not just about appearance. It’s part of protecting property value, keeping tenants happy, and reducing avoidable problems before they become expensive.

Landscaping Impacts Tenant Experience More Thank You Think

Whether you manage an HOA, office complex, retail center, apartment community, or medical building, your outdoor spaces become part of the daily experience for the people who use them.

Tall weeds, muddy/dirty walkways, dead grass, trash, and poorly maintained shrubs and trees make your property feel forgotten. Even if the building itself is in good condition, poor landscaping can lower the overall perception of the property.

Many real estate professionals estimate poor landscaping can reduce perceived property value by roughly 10 – 20%. In more severe cases the loss can reach 30% or more when landscaping and exterior presentation are heavily neglected.

Studies and industry reports commonly show professional maintained landscaping can increase commercial property value or rental desirability by 7 – 15%, with some competitive markets seeing even higher impacts.

Preventative Care Costs Less Than Reactive Fixes

One of the biggest misconceptions about commercial lawn care is that it is mostly cosmetic. In reality, routine maintenance is preventative maintenance.

For example:

Untamed weeds spread quickly choking out existing grass and some plants
Dry spots can turn into dead turf leading to bare spots and mud in the wet seasons
Diseased trees can become hazardous leading to infecting other nearby trees
Overgrown branches can damage building, signage, or vehicles
Poor irrigation can waste water and crease utility costs

Think of lawn care the same way you think about maintaining HVAC systems or roofing. Regular attention helps extend the life of the property and reduces the likelihood of expensive emergency repairs.

Preventative, rather than reactive, care also helps properties stay ahead of seasonal challenges, especially Colorado’s unpredictable climate. Hot, dry summers, sudden freezes, and sporadic heavy snow or rain can all stress lawns and trees throughout the year.

Liability Concerns Should Be Taken More Seriously

Landscaping problems are not always just visual issues. Sometimes they become real safety concerns.

Uneven sidewalks hidden under overgrowth, low tree limbs, icy walkways, rickety stairs or railings, and neglected irrigation leaks can all create hazards for tenants and visitors. And the reality is if someone gets hurt, those small maintenance issues can quickly become much larger — legal — problems.

Slip-and-Fall Injuries Are Extremely Common

According to the National Floor Safety Institute:

Slip-and-fall accidents account for over 1 million emergency room visits annually in the U.S.
Falls are one of the leading causes of liability claims against property owners and managers.
Businesses and property owners can be held liable when hazards were preventable or due to poor maintenance.

Common landscaping-related contributors include:

Cracked or lifted sidewalks from tree roots
Poor snow and ice removal
Uneven walkways
Overgrown vegetation obstructing paths or lighting
Irrigation overspray creating slick surfaces
Poor drainage causing ice or mud buildup

Premises Liability Claims Are Expensive

The National Safety Council reports:

Falls are one of the leading causes of preventable injuries nationwide.
Commercial property owners can face substantial legal and insurance costs from injury claims, especially if negligence is documented.

Industry insurance studies commonly show:

Average slip-and-fall settlements often range from $15,000–$50,000+
Severe injuries can easily exceed six figures
Legal defense costs alone can become significant even if the property owner wins

Property Appearance Influences Perceived Safety

There is also indirect data that supports the connection between maintenance and liability risk.

Studies in environmental psychology and commercial real estate consistently show that poorly maintained properties are perceived as:

Less safe
Less professionally managed
More likely to contain hazards

This matters because in lawsuits, attorneys often attempt to establish a “pattern of neglect.” Poor landscaping and deferred exterior maintenance can contribute to that perception.

What Should Be Included in Commercial Lawn Care Services?

Not every property has the same needs, but a good commercial lawn care program should go beyond simply mowing the grass.

A well-rounded maintenance plan often includes:

Routine mowing and edging
Fertilization treatments
Weed control
Tree and shrub care
Seasonal cleanup
Irrigation monitoring
Insect and disease management
Snow and ice management during winter months

The goal is consistency. Properties that receive ongoing attention throughout the year typically stay healthier, safer, and easier to manage long-term.

It is also important to work with a company, like J. Rick Lawn & Tree, that understands local conditions. Colorado landscapes deal with unique challenges, from drought stress to sudden temperature swings, and those conditions affect how lawns and trees should be cared for.

Drought Resistant Plants to Add to Your Colorado Landscape This Spring

Mon, 06 Jul 2026 05:56:28 GMT

Springs ahs a way of making every yard project feel urgent. The grass starts waking up, the garden centers fill up, and suddenly everyone is thinking, “Maybe this is the year I finally do something with that bare spot by the fence; it won’t grow grass anyway.”

If you live in Colorado Springs, Castle Rock, or anywhere along the Front Range, it helps to plan before you plant. Our weather can be a little dramatic. We get dry spells, windy days, heavy sun, surprise cold snaps (like our annual May snowstorm, lol), and watering restrictisons taht can chane how much care your lanscape needs.

This is why low-maintenance outdoor plants are such a smart choice for Colorado homes. The right plants can add color, texture, and pllinator activity without demanding constant watering, fertilizing, or fussing.

Colorado Springs is commonly around Zone 6a, while Castle Rock is primarily Zone 5b, so the plants you choose need to handle cold winters, hot sun, and dry soil. Native Colorado plants and well-adapted water-wise plants are usually a great place to start.

Why Colorado Native Plants Make Sense for Local Yards

Colorado native plants are plants that were already growing here before European settlement. That means they are naturally used to our climate, soils, temperature swings, and dry conditions. When they are planted in the right spot, many native perennials need less water and fertilizer than plants brought in from wetter regions. They can also support birds, butterflies, bees, and other pollinators.

That does not mean every plant in your yard has to be native. There are also plenty of regionally adapted plants that do well here. The key is choosing plants that match your yard’s sun, soil, and watering needs.

It is also worth keeping water use in mind. Colorado deals with drought often, and dry conditions are a regular part of landscaping here. As of early May 2026, Colorado drought and wildfire risk were active concerns across the state, which makes water-wise landscaping even more important for homeowners.

Our Favorite 7 Drought Resistant Plants for Colorado Yards

Here are a few hardy, attractive options that work well for Colorado Springs and Castle Rock landscapes. Most are native Colorado perennials or regionally appropriate water-wise plants that can handle our dry climate once established.

1. Blanket Flower

Blanket flower (also known as Gaillardia) is a cheerful, sun-loving perennial with bright yellow, orange, and red blooms. It has that wildflower look without feeling messy, which makes it a nice fit for front yard beds, rock gardens, and sunny borders.

Why homeowners like it:

It blooms for a long time, handles full sun, and works well in dry areas once it has had time to settle in. CSU Extension lists blanket flower as a native perennial suited for sun, low moisture, well-drained soil, and elevations up to about 9,000 feet.

Best spot: Full sun with well-drained soil.

Good to know: It is a great option if you want color without babying the plant all summer.

2. Rocky Mountain Penstemon

Rocky Mountain Penstemon (also known as Penstemon strictus) is one of those plants that looks polished without needing much attention. Its blue to purple flowers grow on upright spikes, adding height and color to sunny or partly shaded areas.

Why homeowners like it:

It is beautiful, native, and pollinator friendly. The tubular flowers can attract pollinators, and the plant works well in dry, well-drained soil. CSU Extension notes that Rocky Mountain penstemon grows in sun to part shade, has low-to-moderate moisture needs, and can be planted up to about 10,000 feet.

Best spot: Sunny beds, native gardens, and areas with good drainage.

Good to know: Give it breathing room. Crowding can lead to powdery mildew, especially in areas with poor air flow.

3. Blue Flax

Blue flax (or Linum perenne ‘Appar’) brings soft blue flowers and fine green foliage to the landscape. It has a light, airy look that works well mixed with grasses, wildflowers, and other native Colorado plants.

Why homeowners like it:

It is simple, pretty, and not overly formal. It can reseed, which may be a plus if you like a natural garden style.

Best spot: Full sun to part shade with well-drained soil.

Good to know: The blooms are delicate, but the plant itself is tougher than it looks.

4. Wild Bergamot

Wild bergamot, also called bee balm, (or Monarda fistulosa) is a pollinator friendly plant with lavender-pink flowers and fragrant foliage. It adds a softer, meadow-like look to garden beds and can help bring bees, butterflies, and other beneficial insects into the yard.

Why homeowners like it:

It gives you color, fragrance, and pollinator value in one plant. CSU Extension lists wild bergamot as a native perennial with low-to-moderate moisture needs, sun exposure, and flowers that bloom in the middle of the season.

Best spot: Sunny beds with good air circulation.

Good to know: Like penstemon, wild bergamot appreciates space. Good airflow helps reduce mildew issues.

5. Prairie Coneflower

Prairie coneflower, also known as Mexican hat, (or Ratibida pinnata) has a fun, recognizable shape with drooping petals and a raised center. It brings a casual wildflower feel to dry areas and works especially well in naturalized beds.

Why homeowners like it:

It is drought tolerant, pollinator friendly, and has a strong Colorado prairie feel. CSU Extension lists prairie coneflower as a native perennial for sun, low moisture, and well-drained soils.

Best spot: Full sun, rock gardens, native beds, and low-water areas.

Good to know: Best spot: It may reseed, which can be helpful if you want a fuller wildflower-style planting over time.

Good to know: The blooms are delicate, but the plant itself is tougher than it looks.

6. Little Bluestem

(aka Schizachyrium scoparium) Not every low-maintenance plant needs big flowers. Little bluestem is a native ornamental grass that adds movement, texture, and fall color. It pairs beautifully with flowers like blanket flower, penstemon, and prairie coneflower.

Why homeowners like it:

It gives a yard structure without needing constant pruning or extra water. It also works well in more natural landscape designs.

Best spot: Full sun and dry to average soil.

Good to know: Ornamental grasses are helpful when you want a landscape to look full even after flowers are done blooming.

7. Serviceberry

If you want something larger than a perennial, serviceberry (aka Amelanchier alnifolia) can be a great shrub or small tree option depending on the variety. It offers spring flowers, berries for birds, and seasonal interest without being overly fussy.

Why homeowners like it:

It gives more structure than flowers alone and can help make a landscape feel finished. The Castle Rock approved plant list includes serviceberry varieties among native and regionally adapted plants for water-wise landscapes.

Best spot: Sun to part shade, depending on the variety.

Good to know: Because serviceberry gets larger than the other plants on this list, think through placement before planting. Give it room to grow.

What About Low-Maintenance Outdoor Potted Plants for Full Sun?

Containers can be tricky in Colorado. Pots dry out faster than garden beds, especially in full sun, wind, and hot weather. That means even drought tolerant plants usually need more attention in containers than they would in the ground.

That said, some plants can still work well in sunny pots if you use a large container, choose well-draining soil, and stay consistent with watering while they establish.

Good options to consider include:

Blanket flower
Penstemon
Yarrow
Catmint
Lavender
Smaller ornamental grasses

For Castle Rock and Colorado Springs, larger containers are usually better than small pots. They hold moisture longer and give roots more insulation during temperature swings.

One important note: a plant that is hardy in the ground may be less protected in a pot during winter. If you want potted perennials to come back next year, choose cold-hardy options and consider moving pots to a protected area during the coldest months.

How to Make Low-Maintenance Plants Even Easier to Care For

Even the toughest plants need a good start. Low maintenance does not mean no maintenance, especially during the first season.

To help your plants settle in:

Choose the right plant for the right spot. Pay attention to sun, shade, soil, and drainage.

Water consistently while new plants establish . CSU also notes that native transplants may need supplemental moisture for a few months to a few years, but watering can usually be reduced over time.

Avoid over-improving the soil. Many native plants do not need rich, heavily amended soil. In fact, overly rich soil can make some native plants grow too fast and become short-lived.

Group plants by water needs. This is sometimes called hydrozoning, but the simple idea is this: thirsty plants should go with thirsty plants, and low-water plants should go with low-water plants.

Castle Rock’s plant list organizes plants by water needs to support more sustainable landscapes.

Use mulch wisely. Mulch helps protect roots, reduce weeds, and hold moisture in the soil. Just avoid piling it directly against plant crowns or tree trunks.

Plan Now, Plant Later

Spring is a great time to start thinking through your landscape, even if you are not ready to plant everything right away. Planning ahead gives you time to choose the right plants, find good photos for inspiration, and avoid impulse buys that may not survive Colorado’s dry, sunny conditions.

If your yard has bare spots, high-water areas, struggling plants, or sections that never seem to look quite right, switching to Colorado native perennials and water-wise plants can make a big difference.

The right plants can help your yard look more colorful, more natural, and more prepared for the kind of weather we get along the Front Range.

And that is the real goal: a yard that looks good without making you work for it every weekend.

Photo Disclaimer: Photos are borrowed from High Country Gardens, however, J. Rick Lawn & Tree is not sponsored or affiliated in any way with the company.

Top Mistakes Colorado Landowners Make When Removing Noxious Weeds

Mon, 06 Jul 2026 05:46:55 GMT

If you own acreage or ranch land in Colorado, you have likely encountered noxious weeds. These invasive plants spread quickly, crowd out healthy grasses, and can reduce the value and usability of your property.

Colorado law requires landowners to control designated noxious weeds, and many counties begin sending compliance notices in early August. If you’re new to the topic, we recommend starting with our guides on how to identify noxious weeds in Colorado and how weeds spread across Colorado ranch land.

In this article, we’re taking a different approach. Instead of focusing on identification and biology, we’ll look at the most common mistakes landowners make when trying to remove noxious weeds on their own and why professional treatment often saves time, money, and frustration.

Why DIY Noxious Weed Removal Often Falls Short

At first glance, removing weeds may seem straightforward. Pull them, mow them, or spray them and move on.

The challenge is that Colorado noxious weeds are built to survive. Many spread through deep root systems, underground runners, and seeds that can remain in the soil for years. If treatments are applied incorrectly, weeds often return stronger than before.

That’s why knowing how to remove noxious weeds in Colorado requires more than simply buying a weed killer and hoping for the best.

1. Pulling Weeds Without Removing the Entire Root System

Hand-pulling feels productive, but many noxious weeds have extensive root systems.

Species such as Canada thistle and leafy spurge can regrow from small root fragments left in the ground. What appears to be progress this weekend may return as an even larger infestation next season.

It’s a bit like cutting the top off a candle and expecting it not to burn again.

2. Mowing at the Wrong Time

Mowing can help in certain situations, but poor timing often makes things worse.

If weeds have already formed seeds, mowing can spread those seeds across your property. Some species also respond by producing multiple new stems.

If you’d like to understand how weeds move from one area to another, read our post on how weeds spread across Colorado ranch land.

3. Using the Wrong Herbicide

Not every weed killer works on every weed.

A product that controls dandelions may have little effect on diffuse knapweed or Dalmatian toadflax. Some weeds require specific products applied during narrow treatment windows.

Using the wrong herbicide usually leads to wasted money and disappointing results.

4. Applying Too Much Herbicide

When the first application doesn’t appear to work immediately, it’s tempting to apply more.

Unfortunately, too much herbicide can injure desirable grasses, shrubs, and trees. It can also create bare patches of soil where new weeds can easily take hold.

In weed control, more product does not necessarily mean better results.

5. Treating at the Wrong Time of Year

Timing is one of the most important factors in successful weed control.

Many Colorado noxious weeds are most vulnerable during periods when they are actively moving nutrients to their roots, often in late spring or early fall.

Applying treatments at the wrong time can significantly reduce their effectiveness.

6. Ignoring the Weed Seed Bank

Even after weeds appear to be gone, thousands of seeds may remain hidden in the soil.

Some noxious weed seeds can survive for years before germinating. This is one reason why weed control is rarely a one-time event.

Long-term success requires monitoring and follow-up treatments to catch new growth early.

7. Waiting Until You Receive a County Compliance Notice

Many landowners don’t take action until they receive a letter from their county or the Colorado Department of Agriculture .

By August, many weeds are mature and may have already spread seed throughout the property. While treatment is still possible, earlier action is usually easier and more cost-effective.

Why Professional Noxious Weed Control Works Better

Successful noxious weed management depends on several factors working together:

Correct identification
Proper herbicide selection
Accurate application rates
Ideal treatment timing
Follow-up monitoring

At J. Rick Lawn & Tree, we understand how Colorado noxious weeds behave and how to treat them effectively while protecting the healthy vegetation you want to preserve.

Whether you manage a few acres or a large ranch, our team can create a customized treatment plan to help you regain control.

Keep Pests Out Without Letting Anyone In: How Perimeter Pest Control Works

Mon, 06 Jul 2026 05:43:35 GMT

If you’ve ever opened your front door only to find ants marching inside or spotted spiders making themselves at home in the corners of your garage, you’ve probably wondered how to keep bugs out of your house without turning your home upside down.

The good news is that stopping pests doesn’t always mean treating the inside of your home. In many cases, the best defense starts outside.

That’s exactly how perimeter pest control works.

What Is Perimeter Pest Control?

Perimeter pest control is a preventative service that focuses on creating a protective barrier around the outside of your home or business. Instead of waiting until insects get indoors, a pest control spray is applied around key entry points where bugs are most likely to enter.

Think of it like locking your doors before someone walks in. It’s much easier to stop pests from getting inside than it is to remove them after they’ve settled in.

By treating the outside of your property on a regular schedule, you can greatly reduce the number of insects that ever make it indoors.

How Does Perimeter Pest Control Keep Bugs Out of Your House?

Most insects don’t magically appear inside your home—they come from outside.

Common entry points include:

Doorways
Window frames
Foundation cracks
Utility openings
Garage doors
Patios and porches

When these areas are treated, insects encounter the protective barrier before they ever reach your living space. Many pests either avoid crossing it altogether or don’t survive long after making contact with the treatment.

Over time, regular treatments help reduce overall pest activity around your property, making your home a much less inviting place for unwanted visitors.

What Pests Can Exterior Treatments Help Control?

Perimeter pest control can help reduce many of the insects homeowners deal with throughout the year, including:

Ants
Spiders
Earwigs
Crickets
Pill bugs (roly-polies)
Beetles
Silverfish
Centipedes
Wasps around entry areas

While every property is different, routine treatments are an effective way to manage many common crawling insects before they become a bigger problem.

Is Pest Control Spray Safe Around Your Home?

One of the biggest reasons homeowners choose exterior treatments is that they are designed to stay outside where pests are entering.

Your technician applies the treatment around the perimeter of the structure rather than throughout the inside of your home. This makes the service less disruptive while still providing effective protection.

As with any professional treatment, it’s always important to follow any instructions your technician provides after the application.

Does Perimeter Pest Control Work for Small Businesses?

Absolutely.

Small businesses deal with many of the same pest problems as homeowners. Ants around entrances, spiders near storefronts, and insects around loading areas can leave a poor first impression on customers.

Routine perimeter pest control helps create a cleaner, more welcoming environment while reducing the chances of pests making their way inside your building.

Whether you own an office, retail shop, or other small commercial property, prevention is often the simplest and most cost-effective approach.

Prevention Is Easier Than Elimination

Waiting until you see insects inside usually means they’ve already found a way in.

Regular perimeter pest control helps stop that cycle before it starts. By treating the outside of your property throughout the year, you can reduce pest activity, protect your home or business, and enjoy greater peace of mind.

If you’re looking for a simple way to keep bugs out of your house without having your home’s interior treated, perimeter pest control may be the right solution.

Our team can help you determine the best treatment schedule for your property and keep your home or business protected season after season.

Curb Appeal That Brings in Business: Low-Maintenance Landscaping Ideas for Commercial Spaces

Mon, 15 Jun 2026 15:53:00 GMT

First impressions happen fast. Before a customer walks through your front door, they’ve already noticed your building, parking lot, sidewalks, and landscaping.

A clean, well-maintained property tells people your business is professional, organized, and takes pride in what it does. The good news is that improving commercial curb appeal doesn’t have to mean expensive landscape renovations or hours of weekly maintenance.

With a few smart landscaping choices, you can create an attractive property that’s easy to care for all year long.

Start with a Healthy, Well-Maintained Lawn

The lawn usually covers the largest part of a commercial property, making it one of the biggest contributors to curb appeal.

Instead of focusing on making your grass look perfect, aim for consistency. A healthy lawn with even color and regular mowing creates a clean appearance that customers notice.

To keep maintenance manageable:

Water deeply but less often.
Fertilize on a regular schedule.
Repair thin or damaged areas before weeds move in.
Keep lawn edges trimmed around sidewalks and curbs.

Healthy grass naturally crowds out many weeds, reducing the need for constant weed removal.

Choose Plants That Thrive in Colorado

One of the biggest mistakes property owners make is installing plants that require constant watering or trimming.

Colorado’s climate can be tough, especially during hot summers and dry conditions. Choosing hardy, drought-tolerant plants helps reduce maintenance while keeping your landscape attractive.

Consider adding:

Native grasses
Junipers
Serviceberry shrubs
Russian Sage
Yarrow
Catmint
Ornamental grasses

These plants provide color and texture while requiring far less attention than high-maintenance flower beds.

Don’t Let Weeds Take Over

Nothing hurts commercial curb appeal faster than weeds growing through landscape beds, parking lot cracks, or along sidewalks.

In Colorado, it’s especially important to stay ahead of invasive weeds. Many Colorado noxious weeds spread quickly and can become difficult—and sometimes legally required—to control.

Some common noxious weeds in Colorado include:

Canada Thistle
Diffuse Knapweed
Musk Thistle
Dalmatian Toadflax
Leafy Spurge

These aggressive plants compete with healthy turf and landscaping while creating an unkempt appearance.

How to Remove Noxious Weeds in Colorado

If you’re wondering how to remove noxious weeds in Colorado , the answer depends on the type of weed and how widespread it has become.

The most effective approach usually includes:

Identifying the weed correctly.
Removing young weeds before they produce seeds.
Using targeted weed control treatments when necessary.
Monitoring the area throughout the growing season.

Trying to pull mature invasive weeds often leaves behind roots that simply grow back. Consistent management is usually much more effective than waiting until the problem becomes severe.

Simplify Your Landscape Beds

Landscape beds don’t need dozens of different plants to look attractive.

Using fewer plant varieties creates a cleaner appearance while making maintenance easier.

Fresh mulch also goes a long way toward improving curb appeal. It helps:

Reduce weeds
Hold moisture in the soil
Protect plant roots
Give the entire property a fresh, finished look

Refreshing mulch once a year is one of the simplest ways to make commercial landscaping look professionally maintained.

Keep Trees Healthy and Well-Shaped

Trees add shade, beauty, and value to commercial properties—but neglected trees can quickly have the opposite effect.

Dead branches, low-hanging limbs, or overgrown canopies make a property feel neglected and can even create safety concerns.

Routine tree care helps:

Improve visibility around entrances
Reduce storm damage risk
Keep sidewalks and parking areas clear
Maintain an attractive appearance year-round

A few well-maintained trees often make a stronger impression than several overgrown ones.

Focus on High-Visibility Areas

If your landscaping budget is limited, don’t try to improve everything at once.

Instead, focus on the areas customers see first:

Building entrance
Main signage
Parking lot islands
Sidewalks
Street-facing landscaping

Keeping these spaces neat creates a strong first impression without requiring a complete property makeover.

Small Improvements Add Up

Improving commercial curb appeal isn’t about having the biggest landscaping budget. It’s about creating a property that looks clean, welcoming, and cared for.

Healthy grass, properly maintained trees, fresh mulch, and effective weed control can make a significant difference while keeping maintenance costs under control.

When landscaping works with Colorado’s climate instead of against it, your property stays attractive with less effort—and that’s good for both your business and your bottom line.

Keep Your Commercial Property Looking Its Best

At J. Rick Lawn & Tree, we help businesses maintain attractive, professional landscapes without adding unnecessary work or expense. From lawn care and tree maintenance to managing Colorado noxious weeds, our team helps keep your property looking its best throughout the growing season.

If you’re ready to improve your property’s curb appeal, we’re here to help.

jricklawn.com

What’s happening with my grass?!

Ascochyta Leaf Blight:

Necrotic Ring Spot:

Winter Desiccation

WHAT YOU CAN DO

How to Drain Your Sprinkler System in 5 Easy Steps

What are the Parts of a Sprinkler System?

How to Drain a Sprinkler System:

Steps:

Choosing between DIY or Professional Lawn Care

How Much Money Are You Actually Saving?

DIY Costs

Professional Costs

Is It Worth Your Time?

DIY Time

Professional Lawn Care Time

Making the Decision

Guard Your Yard: Try These 3 Spring Lawn Care Tips

Study and Understand Your Yard’s Preferred Climate

Spring Lawn Care – Fertilize, Water, and Care for your Lawn

Let Your Lawn Breathe: Implement Seasonal Aeration

Wrap Up

Professional Lawn Care: Signs You May Require It

Brown and Yellow Grass

Weeds and Fungus

More Bugs Than Usual

Wrap Up

Why Seeding and Fertilizing Are Important Parts of Professional Lawn Care

Wrap Up

Understanding Seeding Your Yard

Why Do I Need to Seed My Yard?

What Does Seeding Do?

Understanding Fertilizing Your Yard

Why Do I Need to Fertilize My Yard?

What Does Fertilizing Do?

Wondering When to Aerate Your Lawn? Here’s a Few Things You Need to Know

What is Aeration?

When to Aerate Your Lawn?

Aeration should not be performed immediately after the growing season or during stressful periods, for example, peak winter or summer months. The type of grass will ultimately determine when is the best time to aerate.

﻿

What to do After Aeration?

How to cope with a wishy-washy spring

When Mother Nature gets wishy-washy in the springtime, what should we expect?

5 Types of Lawn Weeds You Need to Know in Colorado

Are you struggling with out of control weeds in Colorado? J. Rick Lawn & Tree can help.

﻿ Contact us today for a free quote.

Lambquarters

Bindweed

Purslane

Curly Dock

Kochia

Jack Frost Leave You with Dead Grass? Here’s How to Easily Revive Your Lawn

We’re Colorado Springs’ premium lawn care provider. Contact us today or request a free quote.

Tips to Revive your Dead Grass

Survey the Damage

Get Rid of Debris and Dead Grass

Aerate the Soil

Remove Weeds

Reseed

Fertilize

Maintain

Help plants get back on track

We’re Colorado Springs’ premium lawn care provider. Contact us today or request a free quote.

Watering Guidelines for Colorado Springs’ Lawns

We’re Colorado Springs’ Premium Lawn Care Provider. Contact Us Today Or Request A Free Quote.

Summer Lawn Watering to Beat the Heat

Watering tips

Having temperatures of 90+ degrees? It’s important to understand how to water in summer.

Ascochyta Leaf Blight

We’re Colorado Springs’ Premium Lawn Care Provider. Contact Us Today Or Request A Free Quote.

What’s Wrong with My Tree? The 4 Most Common Tree Diseases You Need to Know in Colorado

Emerald Ash Borer

Fire Blight

Cytospora Canker

Ips Beatles

The Benefits of Lawn Aeration in the Spring

What is Lawn aeration?

Why is it important to aerate your lawn?

Best time to aerate the lawn

Contact us today for a free quote.